A Guide to Cork City's English Market
A lot of things taste better in Ireland: the Guinness, the farmhouse cheese, the fried pork, the dirty spuds. Since some of us aren't ready to ditch the St. Patrick's-ian mindset, here's a guide to one of the Emerald Isle's best culinary destinations: The English Market in Cork City, an indoor covered market hall and Ireland's answer to the lively, delicious Turkish bazaars. It's been around since 1786, and is just as much an institution as University College Cork up the road.
Here's a guide to Cork's English Market, open Monday through Saturday (9 AM - 5 PM) with entrances on Grand Parade and Princes Streets in downtown Cork City. And yes, the title is confusing. Shouldn't it really be called the Irish Market?
About the author: Erin Zimmer, our Washington, D.C., correspondent, is a new media analyst and frequently writes for Washingtonian, DCist, and other local publications. While Georgetown's food columnist, she investigated the cafeteria's omelet station, Hoya coffeeshop's cultish pumpkin muffins, and what exactly the basketball players ate.
Guide to Cork City's English Market
O'Flynns Butcher
There's easily twenty butchers inside, but this is the father-son tradition responsible for a type of meat called ''kaisler," a tender cut of pork loin, brined then lightly smoked and finally baked, usually served with boiled cabbage.
Moynahan
A glass case stocked with sausage pudding, rashers, bangers—all the meats necessary for that iconic, 5,000-calorie Irish Breakfast.
Chicken Inn
Potentially the best poultry deal in the country. Ten chicken breasts for €10! Handkerchief-covered Irish mums know to stock up. Duck eggs are popular here too.
Kay O'Connell's Fish Market
An alleyway long of fisherman reaching their hands into aquarium-link tanks, bagging slabs of salmon, snapper and bass, fresh from nearby port towns like Donegal.
The Chocolate Shop
A simple name, but they get awfully fancy with chocolate-covered ginger, dried oranges and pralines. They'll pour shots of thick, gooey hot chocolate for one euro.
Alternative Bread
Forty types of big, rustic loaves baked fresh each morning, many with spelt, a wheat-like grain Irish bakers love. Get the "sultana," a traditional soda bread with dried fruits and plump raisins.
The Olive Stall
The real name on the sign is in Gaelic, but everyone just calls it the "olive stall." Rows of olive oil, olive-oil soap, and big tubs of wet green and black ones from Greece, Spain, France, and Italy.
Heavens Cakes
Français-style patisserie with elegant berry tarts and crumbles, with that fairy dust-resembling powdered sugar.
Iago
Ropes of fresh pasta, jars of dried porcini mushrooms, pine nuts sold by the pound and ready-to-warm tomato sauces.
Farmgate Cafe and Restaurant
Upstairs, these wooden chairs and tables overlook the scene, serving fresh, hearty national dishes made from downstair's ingredients. The daily chalkboard menu lists the usual: Irish Lamb Stew, Tripe and Onions, Beef Shepherd's Pie and gooey bread pudding served with heavy cream. (Lassies behind the counter don't really give you a choice)
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3 Comments:
Although people outside Ireland have an understandable interest in the native Irish products at the English Market, one thing that has set it apart within the country is its stock of foods from continental Europe, such as at the olive stall. After a very long period during which, judging by the food, someone who didn't know any better might have guessed that Ireland was thousands of miles from, say, France or Italy, the country has finally come to a full realization that those places are just next door. Which, in turn, is leading to fantastic development of the local stuff as well. Very inspiring!
Barry Foy at 4:14PM on 03/18/08
I am interested that you have Kaisler in the English market,
I often go to Bucharest and my Romanian friends always buy me Kaiser,
It is only available in winter and it is a smoked fat bacon joint eaten cold with mustard and piclkles,
it is so good!!
stradling at 2:40AM on 03/20/08
Great article! If you're looking for good restaurants in the area check out www.foodjoker.com. Great selection of places to eat and great site. Available also in 8 languages.
Leo1234 at 4:34PM on 03/26/08