Back to the Baking Box
When I was a little girl, I loved to bake cakes from boxed mixes. I had a babysitter who taught me how to stir the batter so that there were no lumps, and to slice off the top of one layer to make a flat surface. Even though she never let me lick the bowl (for fear of salmonella) I looked forward to the times when she would watch me, and late in the evening when my parents returned home I would insist they have a slice of my frosted, sprinkled sugar bomb before I went to bed.
In the years since, however, I've become a bit of a confectionery snob. When it comes to baking, I've always thought, if it's not from scratch it’s not for me. If you can make a whole batch of double-fudge brownies in 30 minutes, without ever breaking out a set of measuring spoons or a bottle of vanilla, then it doesn't really count as home cooking.
But recent developments have me wondering if it's time to reassess my old rules. The box options have expanded beyond basic Betty Crocker to include more upscale brands such as Ghirardelli. Ina Garten has her own line that includes everything from lemon bars to French crepes. Jacques Torres sells a mix for mudslide cookies.
So I've decided to give baking mixes another chance. Twice a month, I'm going to make something from a box and review it here for Serious Eats.
The Control Cake
Before moving on to the newer baking mixes on the market, I thought it would be a good idea to prepare a cake from a standard mix to use as a kind of control. It had been years since I'd tasted anything resembling a Moist Deluxe Classic Yellow—how could I asses the quality of the gourmet mixes if I had no point of comparison?I baked a Duncan Hines Fudge Marble Cake and iced it with Vanilla Creamy Home-Style frosting. I'm not going to lie—it pained me to do it. Someone I knew got in line behind me at the supermarket and I felt the need to explain my project. I was embarrassed, as if she had caught me renting porn at the video store.
I made the cake according to the lower-fat instructions, replacing the oil with applesauce and reducing the water by 1/4 cup. Once it was in the oven, it filled my kitchen with that distinct artificial batter smell, rich with corn syrup. The taste was pure 8-year old birthday party. It was so sweet it practically made my teeth hurt yet I couldn't stop eating it, like the dessert equivalent of a fast food meal.
Alarmingly, the cake stayed fresh for over a week (they're not kidding about the moist deluxe). More alarmingly, every time I passed it on the counter I whacked off a hunk with a butter knife and ate it quickly, with a guilty foodie conscience. The low point came when I began taking swipes of the frosting alone. Finally, after about ten days, I threw the remains in the garbage.
While I won't be baking another cake like that anytime soon, I remain undeterred in my experiment. I'm excited to try all that the boxes have to offer, from strawberry scones to Swedish pancakes, and beyond.
About the author: Lucy Baker is a graduate student in the writing program at Sarah Lawrence College. Before returning to school to pursue an MFA, she was an assistant cookbook editor at HarperCollins. She lives in Brooklyn and is currently obsessed with all things fennel.
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29 Comments:
shouldn't your control cake been made using the regular directions, not lower-fat?
Love this idea for a column, by the way!
cupcake girl at 3:43PM on 03/21/08
I'm one of those people that sees no shame in the box. I use them at times, but I always make crucial modifications (like using buttermilk in place of the water the box calls for). When you need a reliable cake quick, they work. I don't believe in packaged frosting though....there's nothing you can do to save it; it just tastes like a fake food product.
peachfish at 4:05PM on 03/21/08
This is so interesting. I used to LOVE box mix cakes and would even eat the icing with a spoon straight from the tub, but now I make everything from scratch. Lately I've been wondering if I would still like a Betty Crocker cake. I used to like Sara Lee pound cake and now I think it tastes like some kind of plastic foam. I'm too grossed out by the partially hydrogenated icing even to try it again. I can't wait to see what else you make!
Robin Bellinger at 4:08PM on 03/21/08
I wouldn't be so opposed to inexpensive box mixes if they weren't laden with chemicals and ingredients that are not found in the average kitchen.
I just looked at Ina's vanilla cupcakes with chocolate frosting mix and it contains:
Packet 1: Sugar, malted wheat flour, sour cream (milk), cornstarch, natural flavors, orange and lemon zest, baking soda, sea salt.
Packet 2: Semi-sweet chocolate (sugar, chocolate liquor, cocoa butter, chocolate liquor processed with alkali, soy lecithin (an emulsifier), salt). Packet 3: Confectioner’s sugar, natural flavors, sea salt.
Her other mixes contain similiar ingredients (ie, things I have in my kitchen). However, it's quite pricey (a complete rip-off, if you ask me) at $10.95, so there's no way I'd buy it seeing as how it would be way cheaper for me to make them from scratch.
However, I do see how this would be good for someone who really has no idea how to bake and wants to buy a mix that isn't laden with artificial ingredients like the ones made by Betty Crocker and her compadres Duncan Hines and Pillsbury (and others).
raspberry eggplant
charm city cupcake at 4:13PM on 03/21/08
I would find it interesting to compare the supermarket mixes compared to homemade pre made flour mixes.
bdollhrt at 4:42PM on 03/21/08
I really don't bake from mixes anymore because everything is so loaded with high fructose corn syrup and preservatives. At least you know what is in your cake when you make it from scratch.
tsegada at 5:53PM on 03/21/08
oooh - my all time fave dessert is my mom's chocolate bundt cake which is made with none other than a box of yellow cake mix. i dream of it at night and i really don't think it could ever taste as good as it does with just some normal, old "bake it from scratch" recipe. so there ya go!
jenniewk at 6:11PM on 03/21/08
To tone down the "artificialness" of cake mixes, I used melted butter instead of oil. But otherwise I have no problems with cake mix. Yes, most of can bake cakes from scratch but sometimes getting something tasty with only having to dump and stir is refreshing in itself. Duncan Hines is my favorite brand.
I do draw the line at canned frostings. They remind me of too much of just pure shortening out of the can. And the boxed cake mixes are usually so sweet they can do without the frosting anyways =)
tinat at 7:29PM on 03/21/08
I haven't had a boxed mix since high school, I think, but I have memories of loving the strawberry cake (either Betty Crocker or Duncan Hines) and Ghirardelli Brownie Mix. I thought about making the strawberry cake a few years ago but realized it has artificial food coloring and I have since developed an allergy to food coloring. =(
Foodmayhem_Jessica at 7:47PM on 03/21/08
Is your last name really Baker. Cause that is pretty awesome.
Anyway. Sounds like a cool project. I usually bake from scratch. My brother uses mixes a lot though. Mostly cause he's lazier than I am. I don't think he disagrees on the taste difference.
wunami at 8:31PM on 03/21/08
Years ago when I was first married, we moved to Paris and there were NO packaged mixes for anything. I learned how to make everything from brownies to english muffins from scratch. I even had a recipe for a lamb marinade which included Catalina Salad dressing so I had to figure out an equivalent home-made sauce which would work. Anyway, what I know now that globalization has spread these products around the world...homemade brownes are one type of chocolate dessert and the mix ones are another. They are both good in their context and which I make is determined by which I feel like eating. I am not very much of a cake person so if I am making a cake I will probably make it from scratch. Cupcakes for school however--cake mix all the way!
smallblondemom at 12:04AM on 03/22/08
I agree with the moist factor, but I can't stand that 'box mix' taste. All those preservatives, ugh, that's why it lasts for ten days, and I'm sure it's still in your colon!!
justjenn at 2:02AM on 03/22/08
The box mixes can offer convenience and texture, and as that woman whose career is based on modifying mixes shows, you can gussy up a mix with some pretty good results - mostly by adding flavored liquids, using melted butter and so on. Home made frosting is still required. But eating one of these will still make you feel pretty ill if you're used to eating "clean" food. I have seen mixes in the health food store out here in California however, and I would imagine that they are both tasty and cheaper than Ina Garten's and they even have some organic ingredients. Bottom line: despite eating many grown up cakes in my day, the box cake of childhood is still my vanilla scented, moist and lavishly frosted standard by which all cake eating is compared. This is a fun idea... look forward to seeing how it al turns out.
Tobey at 8:39AM on 03/22/08
You are brave to take on a challenge like this, any cake that lasts a week or 10 days really can't be good for you. Hmmm preservatives, yuck.
I always wonder if those who use the boxed mixes read the ingredient list to see what they're putting in their families' bodies? They're just not my thing, I don't think you have to be a baker to measure some flour, sugar, eggs, and butter either.
I also think I could make 10 from scratch cakes buying all the ingredients instead of paying for an Ina product! $10? wow!
I wish you luck and look forward to reading your reviews.
bobcatsteph3 at 11:03AM on 03/22/08
I personally don't see a problem with boxed cakes. However, after a week it needs to hit the garbage can. Other than that if you have a time crunch and you want something sweet there perfect and cheap.
anberlynn25 at 1:07PM on 03/22/08
it lasted 10 days?
even with all those swipes?
i hear ya. i'd never make one but if you left it at my house it'd be gone pretty quick.... 5 days max.
as for sara lee poundcake, hostess cakes and even good humor bars. they all taste like total shit now. but i think in the 70's the ingredients were actually better than they are now.
cook eat FRET at 1:10PM on 03/22/08
Next time, follow the default recipe on the box, and don't pick a low rated cake mix (Duncan Hines got a poor rating).
Cook's Country rated the Betty Crocker Butter Recipe Yellow the highest.
http://www.slashfood.com/2006/12/04/cooks-country-tests-cake-mixes/
peekpoke at 9:40PM on 03/22/08
I love to cook, but I am and probably never will be much of a baker. I'm ok with boxed mixes, and might even buy one of the more expensive ones if I was asked to bring a cake or something to a family gathering. I can't picture myself using this type of product often, though.
Also, I really, really like brownies from a mix. I guess it is "junk food," but I think I can live with that :)
Kerosena at 9:38AM on 03/24/08
Growing up I did not realize that mking a ckae from scratch was an option. Both my single mother and grandmother worked full time. But I did know what bakery cake tasted like and it was BETTER. Paula Deen uses cake mix in her Ooey-Gooey cakes and while some love them, I still detect that fake box batter taste. I adore the pink iced vanilla cake at Amy's Breads and the Crumb's vanilla cupcake is worth the 780 calories. Boxed cakes are not every worth the calories.
JohnFred at 9:59AM on 03/24/08
Ooh, this is interesting! My mom thinks I'm nuts when I complain about the chemical smell of a box mix cake in the oven. I, too, grew up with mixes, but never use them in my own home partly because I would like to avoid all the nasty ingredients & partly because homemade is just plain better. Can't wait to read your reviews.
Melinda at 11:41AM on 03/24/08
I make wedding cakes for a living, and I can't help but think that it would be would be awfully nice to have 10 days (!) to do my design work on the cake-but happily for my brides all my cakes are made from scratch, so I've usually got a 48 hour window to bake and get my design work done.
giordano1956 at 11:44AM on 03/24/08
I'll admit to a stockpile of boxed mixes in the pantry. They're great for when I need something quick and easy, work beautifully in the crock pot, etc. I chose the variety and brand very carefully when I made my stockpile- they are both kosher pareve AND the mix itself is vegan. If made with egg replacer they make a lovely vegan cake that even those who scoff at vegan food will eat. Can I do these things from scratch? Yes- but sometimes I have to delegate to others, and sometimes I just don't want to have to dirty all the dishes to bake from scratch.
EtherMaiden at 2:35PM on 03/24/08
I don't have very strong feelings about box cakes, pro or con, although they are not as fun to make. But I definitely agree with those think you should have made the box according to the directions. Otherwise, you'll need to use applesauce on all the other tested cakes.
And of course, the applesauce probably increased the sweetness, too.
Box cakes are great for people who don't plan to bake very often. They are so tolerant of over/under mixing and baking--it's virtually impossible to screw it up. The same is not true for most scratch cakes. For people who are not interested in mastering the craft of cake baking, I wouldn't fault them for not wanting to spend the time, energy, and money to end up with a product that they don't like.
renzata at 7:50PM on 03/24/08
I don't make or eat a lot of sweets. However, I do have a weakness for the boxed Ghirardelli double chocolate brownie mix. Yes, I know brownies are easy to make from scratch. I've made them. But these particular boxed ones are darn tasty and so very, very fast.
Amandarama at 9:18PM on 03/24/08
How do you compare all box mixes when your control cake is made using the "lighter" version and iced? And then you want to compare it to a lemon bar mix or a crepe mix...how do you compare those to an iced marble fudge cake?
You are just doing taste tests of different box mixes, which will be interesting and helpful when in a pinch, but you can't use your "control" cake for comparisons.
Carosone at 11:36AM on 03/25/08
Ehhh, whatever. Take a box. Add 4 eggs, a packet of instant pudding mix that compliments the flavor and a cup or so of milk. Hell, maybe a half stick of soft butter just for kicks. Mix. Bake. Eat.
Better than most bakeries can produce, thats for sure.
ChelleyD01 at 1:55PM on 03/25/08
I bake some pretty big birthday cakes and use Moist deluxe only. Usually 4 mixes divided into 2 big pans.Forget the tubs, I make a peanut butter/cream cheese whipped mousse filling, A milk chocolate frosting made with hershey kisses then covered with a chocolate ganache. For a good size birthday party there isn't a crumb left. It prob. weighs in at 25lbs or so!!!! Requested all the time.
joanpieroni2 at 8:41PM on 03/25/08
As a rule, I wouldn't be caught dead serving anything made from a box. However, I did "come out of the baking closet" recently, when I tried AND admitted making a "Mexican Chocolate Brownie" featured on the Pillsbury Bake Off Contest page. It was actually VERY good. But I also suspect that the addition of 1-1/2 cups of Ghiradelli 60% baking chips had a GREAT deal to do with the outcome. Aside from that, growing up with that artificial cake mix smell, was deterrent enough to keep me away from the boxed stuff for life.
Boscompb at 11:03AM on 03/26/08
My mom has a "Cake Doctor" book, which is all recipes that involve adding things to cake mixes. I recently made a rum cake with yellow cake mix and vanilla pudding mix (not a real rum cake, I know), and my co-workers raved about it -- especially the rum-pecan glaze I made with brown sugar and butter. And I'm crazy, but I love the batter. I like homemade best, but the results can be mixed. Sometimes the cake comes out too small or too dry.
misseditor at 1:43PM on 03/26/08