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Sunday Reading

Gourmet runs an until-now unpublished essay by the late food writer Edna Lewis, What is Southern? [Gourmet]

Two months after their own Frank Bruni goose-eggs Harry Cipriani's, the New York Times tries to explain its enduring popularity. [NYT]

Amanda Hesser revisits a late 80s recipe for Potato, Shiitake and Brie Gratin. [NYTM]

Eric Asimov has a hangover. [NYT]

The Hydrox cookie has been killed off. Fun fact: the "name came from combining the words hydrogen and oxygen, which Sunshine executives thought evoked purity." [WSJ, via Coldmud]

Chinese exporters are going kosher to offset the U.S. backlash over tainted food products. [Mercury News, via Consumerist]

Maureen Dowd gets food poisoning and White House doctors come to the rescue. [Barfblog]

4 Comments:

Thanks for the links to Amanda Hesser's & the Hydrox articles---good Sunday reading!

I had just gotten over the loss of the Hydrox and now you send me to the WSJ... Now I have to suffer on a cold windy Sunday with a lonely glass of milk and nothing to dunk into it.

I wonder exactly what kind of pressure the Cipriani family exerted to get them to write such a piece after that savage review by Bruni.

I like the way Gourmet has been putting together some of their issues lately. More like a book than a magazine - the articles are cogent and related.

FYI the new issue of Cucina Italiana is out, with the revised focus (I believe there was an editorial split?) and it reminds me, happily, of the old Cucina Italiana before it was printed in English. Very nice. :)

Two articles on Cipriani with different POV's in the NYT was a great idea. I wish they had printed three articles. Even with the food as it stands now and the high prices, if there were no Cipriani in Manhattan someone would have to invent one. All great cities require watering and preening places for the powerful - they always have. It's not about the food, no. But it is a restaurant, and it is theatre - and it is very much about being cared for within the ways food, culture, and the table are utilized.

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