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Snapshots from Asia: Phallic Sea Cucumbers

snapshotsfromasia-seacucumber.jpg

A friend of mine has a "theory" regarding Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). He reckons TCM stems from a simplistic belief the Chinese have: food resembling body parts must be beneficial for those same body parts. For instance, walnuts resemble the brain and are therefore nourishing for the brain. Ginseng roots look like little men (or voodoo dolls) and so are considered therapeutic for total body wellness. I'm no TCM expert, but a cursory search online indicates "ancient Chinese doctrines" (no citation whatsoever) support my friend's theory...

Add to this list the prized (and pricey) sea cucumber. With it's decidedly phallic appearance and behavior—"on being kneaded or disturbed slightly with fingers...it swells and stiffens, releasing a jet of water from one end...after releasing the jet, it looses its stiffness and reverts to its original state"—it's no great leap of the imagination deducing what the Chinese reckon it valuable for.

Considered a "potent aphrodisiac," the sea cucumber is also supposed to be excellent for joint health—with “remarkable healing properties”—and is much sought after in Asia. In fact, this demand led to “the first recorded instance of interaction between Indigenous Australians and their Asian neighbors” when the Asian traders bartered for the right to harvest the creatures from coastal waters.

Similar to clamming and crabbing, "trepanging" is the act of harvesting sea cucumbers from the sea floor. They are related to sea urchins and starfish, and are traditionally blanched and smoked before being transported to market. Once you’ve brought them home, sea cucumbers need to go through a tedious three-day process of overnight soaks, water changes, and boiling before they’re ready to be cooked. Some people find the gelatinous, blubbery texture off-putting, but I love the way it melts in my mouth after it has simmered for hours in a soy sauce and pork broth (it’s a much leaner alternative for fans of "dong bo" or three-layer pork!). Like tofu and tempeh, it takes on the flavors of whatever it’s simmered in. Poorly prepared sea cucumbers, however, have an obvious metallic tang and leave a nasty, slick aftertaste. I’ve noticed this to be most prevalent in sautéed—as opposed to braised—dishes, as well as when using commercially prepared (that three-day ordeal) sea cucumbers.

By the by, there’s evidence it’s healing properties aren’t just ballyhoo.

9 Comments:

That's an awfully friendly-looking sea cucumber, Ling. :)

I find the word "simplistic" insulting unless you're using the word in error and do not mean to be judgmental. Otherwise, interesting.

hey Eliz, I use the word "simplistic" not to be judgemental, but in reference to how the workings of TCM can sometimes seem arbitrary (I mean, seriously... if the food looks like the body part, it must be good for it?!) to the average layperson not learned in TCM =p
Having said that, I stand in awe of the thousands of years of knowledge that form the basis of traditional medicine (Chinese, Korean, Ayurvedic, etc.). Many of the traditional cures have been backed up by science, and complimentary medicine (a judicious mix of Western and traditional) is a burgeoning field. In Asia however, there is a real problem among the older generation of not wanting to take Western medicine for life-threatening illnesses like cancer. I have witnessed family members waste away while refusing to accept "Western treatment," and would always advocate the making of informed decisions.


Karen, take a look at this one:
http://www.wwf.org.hk/images/hoihawan/gallery/seashore/2.-Sea-cucumber_ph.jpg

onedaylingers at 6:30PM on 01/21/08

Ha, ha! Reminds me of Darth Vader.

Thank you for responding. I trust your intentions were primarily to inform and entertain rather than to mock. Still, if your friend actually used the word "simplistic", he was being judgmental; the word always has pejorative connotations.

The idea that a sea cucumber might serve as an aphrodisiac--or EDT--seems hardly arbitrary given both its shape and the properties the organism shares with the genitals of aroused men.

Rather, the medicinal tradition you report is associative in nature.

Chinese traditional medicine is not alone in this regard. De Materia medicae is the Latin name of an ancient text written by the Greek physician Dioscorides that was copied and richly illustrated by medieval artists in Byzantium and the Islamic world. Christians saw in the botanical images of the blackberry what Dioscorides did not: the Burning Bush of Moses--by virtue of resemblance--and Mary, given theological practice of seeing the Old Testament fulfilled in the New. Thus, the plant no longer was viewed merely as a cure for diarrhea, etc. and given its link to Christ's mother, a stress was placed on its ability to stem the bleeding of women.

Since I am neither a medical doctor nor a herbalist, I don't know how many of the 1st-century beliefs persist in modern medicine or folk remedies. However, I doubt many surgeons are able to cite Dioscorides since his treatise is no longer of great cultural significance and we can relegate it to the past, treating it as a historical document rather than superstition.

I wonder how old the beliefs about the restorative properties of sea cucumbers are and what factors we might point to in understanding their persistence.

"Chinese traditional medicine is not alone in this regard."
Eliz., I appreciated your comments--thanks!

If my phallus ever looks like that I'm cutting it off myself. That's not a healthy look.

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