I love artisanal farmstead cheeses as much as anybody, and though I appreciate and understand that said cheesemakers do not get rich off their endeavors, sometimes I don't feel like springing for a piece of Vermont Shepherd's or Cato Corner's cheese that costs over $20 a pound. So I am thrilled to report that I have just tasted a truly delicious, less expensive ($11.96 a pound) cheese, Butler's Rothbury Red.

If you like cheddar cheese in general, and raw milk cheddar in particular, you will love this cheese.

Here is what Fairway Market cheesemonger supreme Steve Jenkins wrote about Rothbury Red on its wrapper:

Raw cow's milk: Aged for 12 months. Vegetable rennet. A firm body and traditional flakey texture. This exceptional Red Leicester has a butterscotch flavor and subtle nutty aftertaste.

Well said by Mr. Jenkins, who on a good day is an exceptional cheese ad copywriter.

Butler's Rothbury Red melts well, so if you're looking for a cheese to take your Super Bowl nachos to another level, this may well be it. Or just eating a hunk of it with either a crusty roll and/or a ripe pear or an apple will do just fine.

I assume that this cheese is available at all three Fairways in New York City. Call first to make sure.

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