• Share:
  • Send to Reddit
  • Send to StumbleUpon
  • Send to Facebook
  • Send to del.icio.us
  • Send to digg

Is Cheese Vegetarian?

20071218brebislacaune.jpgA couple weeks back, on a blustery morning at the Union Square Greenmarket, I had a very interesting conversation with Karen Weinberg of 3-Corner Field Farm. A small dairy sheep farm on New York's border with Vermont, 3-Corner Field produces outstanding farmstead sheep's milk cheeses and yogurts. If you can get your hands on their luscious, showstopping bloomy-rind cheese called Shushan Snow, you will not be disappointed.

On this particular Wednesday, Weinberg was also selling a couple of aged Pyrénées-style cheeses, one of which was perfectly smoked by the Monks of New Skete. As we stood teeth-chattering among her hanging sheepskins, the topic of vegetarian cheese came up, and I discovered that Weinberg has some really interesting, if contrarian, ideas about the subject.

The term vegetarian cheese might sound redundant to you; after all, cheese is made with milk, which clearly can be obtained without killing an animal. What most people mean when they use the term vegetarian cheese is that the cheese was made with vegetarian rennet. (See below for a primer on vegetarian vs. animal rennets.) Some vegetarians are OK eating cheeses made with animal rennet, but many will seek out ones made with vegetarian rennet, especially since the latter are quite prevalent nowadays. But is vegetarian cheese really vegetarian? Weinberg doesn't think so, and after talking to her I have my doubts as well.

Granted, making cheese doesn't involve any direct slaughter, but what if we take a look at things from a higher vantage point? A dairy farm is part of a larger agricultural system, one that is often complicated by industrial agriculture, but one that is plain to see at the scale of a small farm like 3-Corner Field. Many people don't make this seemingly obvious connection, but in order for a sheep (or any mammal) to lactate, she has to give birth first. From this new generation, only half, at most, will be milkers (the ewes). What happens to all the little ram lambs? Well, sure, some of them can go on to satisfying careers as professional studs, but most will just end up on the plate. In addition, even many of the milkers end up as food, not so much in this country but in others where mutton is more readily consumed.

What's the alternative? For farmers to keep these animals as pets? Even in a small operation, this would be untenable. The point is that if you look at dairy farming with a wide-angle lens, all of a sudden what comes into focus is a whole lot of meat production. So, in a sense, cheese can never be vegetarian because it leads to the indirect slaughter of animals for their meat. Small-scale farmers like Weinberg, after all, need to exploit all available profit centers if they want to stay in business; if she didn't sell her lamb meat (or her sheepskins), she wouldn't be able to make ends meet with her wonderful cheeses alone.

This is a potentially controversial viewpoint, and I'm curious to hear your thoughts about it. Is it right to draw a distinction between foods that come directly from animal slaughter and those indirectly associated with it?

Rennet, the coagulant used to make many cheeses, is a combination of many different enzymes, and occurs naturally in the abomasum, or fourth stomach, of young ruminant animals (calves, lambs, kids, for example). True animal rennet can only be harvested by killing the animal and processing the stomach to extract the enzymes. Vegetarian rennet on the other hand can be made in a few different ways, but never involves killing an animal directly. There are vegetarian rennets derived from fungi, plants, as well as lab-created genetically engineered rennet that otherwise mimics the real thing.

About the author: Jamie Forrest publishes Curdnerds.com from his apartment in Brooklyn, New York, where he lives with his wife, his daughter, and his cheese. | Photograph from Wikimedia Commons

View other entries from Serious Cheese.

21 Comments:

I love Karen, and her products. In addition to meat, cheese and yogurt, she sells fabulous sheep's milk soap.

If I'm going to eat meat, I want it raised by people like Karen and Paul, who respect the animals and the land.

As a cheese-eating vegetarian, this is something I definitely think about. My real issue with cheese, though, is the treatment of dairy cows throughout their lives. I have a bigger problem with industrial dairy operations than with small farmers who leave their cows on pasture and slaughter bull calves/adult steer to sell as beef and veal after they've led happy, healthy lives outdoors.

Cows are intelligent, complicated animals, and at most dairies they are kept chained by the neck in a barn 365 days a year, miserable and covered in manure. If you are a vegetarian because of animal rights/ethical issues, you should be eating as much pastured, (100%) grass-fed cheese as possible, in my opinion.

I suppose I've somewhat dodged your question here, but I strongly agree that, unless you are vegetarian simply for health reasons or something, people who are trying to eat ethically need to consider all the implications of their food choices.

I think this question is also complicated by the aspect the vegetarian is coming from. If you are what I call, for want of a better word, an 'ick' vegetarian(ie, someone who doesn't eat meat because they don't like it - though these people too often morph into 'moral' vegetarians, a superiority I find as irksome as it is unwarranted in their case), then it seems to me cheese is clearly vegetarian. On the other hand, if you are truly a moral vegetarian, you surely cannot ignore the broader issues and still maintain any claim to the moral high ground?

Of course, there is already a name for vegetarians who have decided not to eat cheese, milk, or eggs: they are called vegans.

At almost any point, however, there are ethical concerns regarding food choices. For example, should a vegan who is concerned about the environment eat factory-farmed vegetables? What about vegetables that use any fertilizer? Should a vegan eat food from an organic farm that also raises animals for eggs, milk, or slaughter?

I totally agree, greenfield. People talk about the slippery slope, but ALL of morality is a slippery slope. Each of us needs to stake out a place on the slope where we can keep our footing - whether that entails a dietary restriction or not. With the inter-relatedness of each element of the earth, every action we take has consequences - intended and unintended. No one can achieve an impact-free life, so its a matter of reaching a point where we can deal with the results of our actions. Education is an important part of the equation - we can't judge whether we're comfortable with the consequences of our actions until we know what those consequences are. And that's why I really like this article. Informative and curious, without getting too judgemental.

Full disclosure: I've been an ovo-lacto vegetarian for almost 20 years. I never eat meat (though I still get the occassional unsatisfied craving for a liverwurst sandwich), and I try to avoid cheese made with animal rennet though I'm not rabid about it.

I agree with a couple of the previous posters in that, it really depends on why the person decided to stop eating meat in the first place.

I have been a lacto-ovo vegetarian for almost 14 years. My decision was due to the fact that I didn't like most meats, coupled with all of the "it's healthier" messages I was reading in magazines. Obviously I would rather eat a cheese without animal rennet but I'm not going to be crazy about it. I just don't like eating the meat.

I think vegans should just fess up and admit to the fact that they are hypocrites. Plants and fungi feel pain too. Plants and fungi have souls, have families, they breathe, they sleep, they are spiritual in their worship of the sun, the shade, the warm and the moist. They do these differently in some cases than animals. They are made of flesh, albeit of a different sort than that of animals. But they are all living things. So, vegans should either stop eating ANY LIVING MATTER or give up their silly, transparently idiotic and annoying charade.

I'm not saying that we shouldn't be humane with what we eat, but it really comes down to the basic question: are you going to eat something that was once alive and killed for your sustenance, or not?

Formerly alive or not, if it tastes good I'll eat it.

Isn't cheese vegetarian because it doesn't have a face? In other words, the animal did not have to die to yield the food product?

Let's say I amputated a cow's tail and didn't kill it. I then make a beautiful braised oxtail stew from it. Is it vegetarian?

i don't get it. Doesn't an animal pretty much keep producing milk as long as its being milked every day? Isn't that what a dairy cow is, for example? I didn't think that there was a finite period that an animal would produce milk, and then it would have to give birth again to start the process over...

I'm sorry, but anyone who has spent a decent amount of time around cows will tell you that they aren't the smartest animals on the planet by far, nor are they particularly complicated.

@jpschust:

Therefore it's ok to treat them poorly?

mh330, no, most dairy animals need to give birth every year to continue to produce milk. They need that hormone kick, or they'll stop. Other mammals don't nurse their young as long as humans, so their bodies aren't set up to just keep lactating.

I do my best to eat cheese made with vegetarian rennet. If the information's not available, I might buy cheese anyway, but if two cheeses are labeled, I will always choose the one with vegetarian-appropriate rennet.

I'm not against animals being used for food. I am against the industrial agricultural model, for both ethical and health reasons. So if the cheese / dairy industry creates meat animals, I'm not upset, although I will pass on eating the meat myself.

I outlined some of my opinions on my blog not so long ago:

http://www.threepotato.blogspot.com/2007/12/ethics-on-side.html

Chickens pose a similar dilemma. Cockerels (young male chickens) that are egg-laying breeds are a by-product of the egg industry.

I am a lactovegetarian and, very much like KarynMC, do my best to eat cheese and dairy products without rennet or any other foreign additive. I have this motto - that if I can't understand it on the label, I don't buy it.

I choose not to eat any animal products and I am against the industrial agricultural model. But I do not live on a farm or grow my own produce, so I need to rely somewhat on it. I support local farming as much as possible, support products who consciously say in their labeling they do not use animal rennet in their preparation - such as Cabot.

I wrote in my blog a note on rennet in cheeses and a list of cheeses suitable to eat for vegetarians - by brand and by type of cheese.

http://karmafreecooking.wordpress.com/topic-index/cheeses-what-to-watch-out-for/

Madelyn
KarmaFreeCooking

That 'in a sense', Jamie, is the kind of sense that would also stop people from eating ethically, because at a sufficiently wide angle, nothing is unconnected to slaughter. All distinctions collapse. Vegetarians can't escape the cycle of slaughter. Vegans can't easily escape the massacres wreaked by farm equipment upon small creatures in fields. If you quibble about whether vegetarianism should extend to not eating things in a production model that allows other people to eat meat, then you might as well just order up the grain-fed, cow-crate steaks and be done with it.

(I'm reminded of the Jain monks whose vow not to take life leads to them starving themselves.)

I haven't consciously, deliberately eaten meat in a decade. I've no doubt unconsciously consumed animal products, especially in recent years, since the US is far behind Europe in taking animal fat and other stuff out of products you'd otherwise expect to be fine. And purity is a lofty goal: should I refuse the slice of birthday cake at my young relatives' parties because the eggs used to make it are from battery hens?

You just do the best you can in your own choices, and you trust that small-scale farmers handle the meat side of their agriculture with the conscientiousness of their other work. Because livestock farming is the exploitation (in a neutral sense) of animals' life and death, and that's just how it has been since the ancient hunter-gatherers had a few ideas to make their lives easier.

I think I would say that cheese is not vegetarian and eggs are not vegetarian. well, at least not strictly vegetarian. I'm living in South India where there are a lot of vegetarians, to say the least, and they do not eat eggs or cheese. In fact, serving eggs in school became a big controversy because vegetarians did not want their children to watch other children eating eggs. Some places won't rent to non-veg people, though that may be a form of religious discrimination. And the veg places do not serve alcohol.

I moved here from San Francisco, and seeing veg here is a whole nother level compared to veg in the US.

The Jains do not appear to be starving though - I think they are allowed to eat fruit that has fallen to the ground and also are maybe required to eat whatever is given to them when they ask for food.

Karen emailed me a response to this, which she would've posted herself if she weren't so busy packing for tomorrow's farmers market! From Karen:


You brought up the issue of the economic need to use all the animals (and their by-products) produced on a sustainable farm. The issue is also moral: how can a dairy producer ensure that the animals are treated well after they leave their operation (assuming they are treated well when there) if they are sent to auction or anywhere else? That was our issue when selling off young lambs. We felt that the last three days of their lives (on a trailer, no food or water, handled heaven knows how) was inhumane after being raised with care and respect for 4 months. That's how we started raising ALL of our lambs on pasture ourselves. Yes they go to slaughter, but we bring them there, and can ensure that up to the very last minutes of their lives they see a familiar face and are not mishandled or abused. Same thing goes for our culled milking ewes.

What bothers me the most is that somehow rennet from the stomachs of ALREADY SLAUGHTERED calves is considered the engine that drives the train for many so-called vegetarian cheese eaters. It is such a small issue! What about how the animals were treated when alive (e.g., I know some of the producers for Cabot -- vegetarian rennet not withstanding -- and they are confining their cows and running factory-like farms) should be the key issue. ALL of those animals will eventually be used for meat (as long as healthy), so THAT they are slaughtered is a non-issue. And, that slaughtered animals' stomachs get used for making rennet to me is a non-issue.

As a person who spends her life with livestock, cares for them 24/7, relies on them to keep our farm viable, and loves them for how they enrich my life and community, the "wide angle" is the ONLY one that I look through. That people less familiar with farming have a narrower lens is not an excuse for bad decision-making -- so I feel my responsibility is to the sustainable farming model to which I adhere, and that includes educating (and sometimes scaring away) customers whose narrower lens allows them to feel comfortable eating Cabot cheddar -- with vegetarian rennet.

Warmest regards,
Karen

fungi are spiritual??

Add a comment:

Comments can take up to a minute to appear - please be patient!

Previewing your comment:

 

HTML Hints

Some HTML is OK: <a href="URL">link</a>, <strong>strong</strong>, <em>em</em>

Comment Guidelines

Post whatever you want, just keep it seriously about eats, seriously. We reserve the right to delete off-topic or inflammatory comments. Learn more at our Comment Policy page.

If you see something not so nice, please, report an inappropriate comment.