Although Frank Reese Jr. doesn't quite like the "heritage" label (it's losing its meaning, he says), he's keeping five vintage turkey breeds from going the way of the dodo. With careful breeding and selection, the heritage birds will have a richer, deeper flavor than bland commercial turkeys, but the process requires a discerning eye. "People will eat these turkeys for a while as a novelty, but if we don’t keep the quality up and make it as good as it can be, people will stop buying them."