Houston's Doesn't Suck: What's Your Favorite Slightly Fancy Chain Restaurant?
I was out with a couple of food writer friends a couple of weeks ago at a fancy-pants Italian restaurant when first one and then the other began to rhapsodize about the Houston's in Washington, D.C.'s tony Georgetown neighborhood. "That restaurant is really good," said one. "You're right," the other, a respected restaurant critic, replied. "Houston's is a really good restaurant."
"If it's so good," I asked, "why haven't you ever reviewed or even written about it?"
My friend hesitated before stammering, "I would have if a new Houston's would open up." A punt of an answer if I ever heard one.
I quickly changed the subject. Let's face it. Chain restaurants in big cities like New York, Chicago, Los Angeles, and San Francisco get a bad rap because, well, they're links in a chain. That's not to say that more often than not, the food at chain restaurants leaves something to be desired. But the category as a whole doesn't get a fair shake from critics. I first wrote about this in July, when Philadelphia Inquirer restaurant critic Craig Laban surprised me by reviewing the new Legal Seafoods location in Philly. The fact is that slightly fancy sit-down chain restaurants are almost never written about because they are chains. Critics want to write about people, not corporate concepts. Is this fair? Is this right?
When I was consulting for the Discovery Networks a few years ago, I would frequently eat at the Houston's in Bethesda, Maryland. It was then that I realized that the food at Houston's was mighty tasty, carefully cooked, and made with good ingredients.
I remember coming back to New York from these trips and telling my food critic and writer friends about the great pork chop, the phenomenal burger, and the killer spinach and artichoke dip at Houston's. They would all shrug their shoulders as if to say "so what."
Fast forward to this past week. I took two of my fellow Serious Eaters to a Houston's here at 27th Street and Park Avenue. We went for lunch at 2 p.m. because, even though many people thought Houston's would not succeed in New York, a city where personal, individual restaurants rule the gustatory roost, Houston's is crazy popular, and if you go to eat lunch there at 12:45, you will wait in line.
We ordered the spinach and artichoke dip, a cheeseburger, a Famous French Dip Au Jus, the seared tuna steak, the barbecue ribs, and a warm five-nut sundae from our exceedingly solicitous and knowledgeable waiter.
The spinach and artichoke dip was addictive. If a friend would serve you something this tangy and creamy and green at a dinner party, you would be thrilled.
The cheeseburger was awesome, cooked as ordered (medium-rare), served with melted cheddar cheese, lettuce, and onion on a toasted egg bun. The fries that came with the burger were cut a little thinly for my taste, but they were properly cooked and salted.
The French dip sandwich would have been really good if the French roll wasn't so cottony soft and tasteless. It came with a terrific couscous made with almonds and raisins.
The barbecued pork ribs were really tasty. They were not smoked, but they were meltingly tender with a saucy, caramelized exterior. The accompanying coleslaw was a creamy, slightly tangy delight. It may be the best coleslaw I've had in a while.
The seared tuna steak was a real disappointment. It was clumps of sliced rare ahi tuna that should have remained unsliced until we cut into it.
The five-nut brownie was warm, made with good chocolate, a shot of espresso, a scoop of Sedutto vanilla ice cream, warm caramel sauce, and came in a totally superfluous pool of Champagne custard.
All in all, a solid one-star meal carefully conceived and executed. Honest food made by people who care. Unfortunately, it's one you'll never read about in places like New York or Los Angeles magazines or in the San Francisco Chronicle.
The food in a Houston's is cooked by a person and not a machine. At the Houston's I went to there's even a line on the printed menu that says who the chef is.
So what's your favorite slightly fancy, sit-down chain restaurant? To qualify, the chain has to be in at least two states, cost more than $25 a person for a meal, and have more than ten branches. Steakhouses don't count.
Add a comment:
Previewing your comment:
HTML Hints
Some HTML is OK: <a href="URL">link</a>, <strong>strong</strong>, <em>em</em>
Comment Guidelines
Post whatever you want, just keep it seriously about eats, seriously. We reserve the right to delete off-topic or inflammatory comments. Learn more at our Comment Policy page.
If you see something not so nice, please, report an inappropriate comment.
47 Comments:
There's a company out of Ann Arbor, Michigan called Mainstreet Ventures that started 25 years ago with The Real Seafood Co. there on, well, Main St. They now have various types of restaurants targeting different markets in cities in Michigan, Ohio, West Virginia and Florida. Last year for my Halloween birthday my wife took me to The Real Seafood Co. location in Toledo where I ordered the Sautéed Lake Superior Whitefish with dried Michigan cherries, shiitake mushrooms and fresh basil (detailed on page 50 in the organization's hardbound cookbook). It's great to be able to recreate such a mouthwatering dish at home with the actual recipe! For my birthday dinner next week, Mary's been wanting to take me to Mainstreet's Ciao! for a couple years now, so that's where we're headed.
The Mainstreet Ventures cookbook is so complete it even outlines, with photos, which wines and cigars go best with which kinds of dishes, and has a section on the techniques the restaurants use to cook items such as pasta.
LunaPierCook at 8:06AM on 10/26/07
I like Houstons, but I also like PF Changs,Applebees and Cheesecake Factory. Strangely enough, I only eat in these places when I am out of NY. When I go to Fla. to visit relatives, these are the surest bets I will get decent food. In NYC or NJ, I have rarely gone to a chain restaurant.
Mich23 at 8:13AM on 10/26/07
I really like Legal Seafoods. I've never been to Houstons...but now am tempted after reading your review.
ceforrester at 8:55AM on 10/26/07
There's a Brio Tuscan Grille in my city that is just awesome. I've never had a bad meal there, and the staff is young, talented, and excited. It's really great. Although sometimes I kinda hate myself for loving a chain so much. :)
erelmartin at 9:22AM on 10/26/07
Houston's is my favorite fancy chain restaurant. The spinach dip rocks. I was crushed when they closed the Georgetown location but it's worth the trek to Bethesda.
moose at 9:25AM on 10/26/07
I think its a Canadian chain, so it doesn't meet the "two state" guideline (but it is in at least two provinces) but Moxie's Classic Grill has good food and nice atmosphere. Service varies by location, but I've always enjoyed my meals there.
psychsarah at 9:30AM on 10/26/07
I love authentic Chinese food (think Dim Sum from Monterrey Park California), but for some reason there is a soft spot in my heart for PF Chang's. Does that make me a bad person?
Zach Brooks at 9:36AM on 10/26/07
I love Houston's. They used to have this amazing side dish of brown rice and black beans that I craved, but then they took it off the menu. Houston's probably has the best veggie burger I have ever tasted though. I can't describe why its so good, it tastes nothing like a burger, but it doesn't have that veggie burger taste. It has a delicious taste all its own.
Other good things at Houston's. Their hickory burger with BBQ sauce, canadian bacon, and shredded cheddar cheese piled on top. Also, their key lime pie.
chasgoose at 10:00AM on 10/26/07
My preferred chain is Il Fornio. What I look for in a good chain is evidence that there's someone in the kitchen who seems to really care about what good food tastes like. I work in advertising and marketing and have worked for chain restaurants and I think it's very clear when marketing is more important than the food. PF Changs is okay, but they also have a sister French concept called Salut which has serious problems with food and service.
swillats at 10:03AM on 10/26/07
i love le pain quotidien, although i confess i always order the same thing: an order of the french baguette and an order of prosciutto. i quickly eat the procsiutto and then use the bread as a delivery system for the large jar of hazelnut butter they foolishly leave on my table.
cybercita at 10:11AM on 10/26/07
Until trying Houston's for A Hamburger Today, I just assumed it on par with T.G.I. Friday's or Houlihan's, so I avoided it. I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the burger and the service. Although, to this day, I haven't had anything else there, I'd be willing to try other dishes.
I like the P.F. Chang's. Those crazy "Soothing Lettuce Wraps" are addictive.
Adam Kuban at 10:13AM on 10/26/07
I really liked the melting pot the one time I was there.
Eroca at 10:17AM on 10/26/07
I'd second Il Fornaio -- I've wound up there when travelling for business and eating alone and too fried to be adventurous -- it's always a nice dinner, and they give good service to a woman dining alone.
Charlotte at 10:36AM on 10/26/07
Wow, I didn't even know there was a chain called Houston's. Gonna have to try that sometime. I also like the chains Macaroni Grill and Carraba's. It seems people also like PF Chang's and Cheesecake Factory, but none of those are in NY.
foodinmouth at 10:52AM on 10/26/07
Is Roy's too high-end? It is a chain, has plenty of locations, and the entrees alone get you above the dollar amount. For my money, the best chain ever!
Mizbee at 11:11AM on 10/26/07
Is Roy's owned by Roy Yamaguchi? How many are there? I've never been, but I have certainly heard of him.
Ed Levine at 12:35PM on 10/26/07
Seasons 52, a Darden chain, is in a few locations in FL and also a couple in Atlanta. I reaaaaaaaaaally wish they'd come further north!
Great seasonal food (hence the name), good wine list with reasonable markups, and they lean towards healthy food, with caloric/fat info listed everywhere on the menu. Great atmosphere and drinks to boot! No connection--just a fan here. www.seasons52.com
Curlz at 12:49PM on 10/26/07
Roys was started by Roy Yamaguchi. I would doubt that he is the sole owner of the chain, but he is definitly involved.
There are about a dozen Roys in Hawaii and (as I recall from the menu) location in CA, AZ, and a few other states. The one in downtown Seattle unfortunatley closed a couple years back.
My wife and I try plan a visit to a Roys when we are in Hawaii. It really epitomizes your theory that "chain" is not necessarily a bad word.
drew811 at 12:56PM on 10/26/07
i love cheesecake factory. the "blue cheese dip" that comes with their buffalo chicken sandwich... ask for it with anything you order to dip your fries in. it is a creamy, garlicky wonder. i also love their minty iced green tea.
i've found in life, and even in the "talk section" here, that people have dismissed restaurants merely for being chains... forgetting that some started as a single store that just did well enough to merit opening others. so, thanks for this article. :)
lexophile at 1:07PM on 10/26/07
Interesting topic of discussion that is rather close to my heart today in particular. I recently was the manager of a local bistro that closed. It was a well loved favorite here in the Jacksonville, FL historic district. Notice I said it closed, so in about 2 hours from now I am due to report for my first server orientation of a new high end chain that is opening in two weeks, also part of the Darden Group, Capital Grill (probably a similar comparison to Houstons). I have been struggling with this decision for a week now, but I need to pay my bills until I figure out my next move. But a corporate restaurant? I have been asking my self this all day. So far, all of the interviews have been professional and they management team appears to have a commitment to quality and service. I suppose we will see, but this this post does help me put on the ridiculous bow-tie and walk through the front door. It is certainly swallowing some pride, but I probably need that every now and then anyway.
crystalvessels at 1:18PM on 10/26/07
Maggiano's Little Italy would have to be my favorite. Their appetizers are deliciously and carefully prepared, so ordering their Bombalina Platter (i.e. sampler) is wonderful. It has stuffed mushrooms, zucchini fritte, bruschetta, crispy onions & a spniach artichoke al forno w/ foccacia. Yum! I also love their (seasonal) butternut squash ravioli, but if I can't get that, the lobster ravioli is perfect too. A steak & gorgonzola salad later and I can't even look at the dessert menu. Somone will have to let me know! :c)
notchumofo at 1:21PM on 10/26/07
This is funny, just yesterday I was up in Stamford CT, sitting at a red light, staring at the P.F. Chang's and thinking to myself that I actually liked their food, sometimes more than some food I've had at actual Chinese restaurants. That and Legal Seafoods have been good to me over the years, especially in situations where they were the only real food options.
Ed, you bring up an important issue that should be addressed by "Serious Food Critics" such as yourself, and the Frank Brunis of the world. You are after all providing us, the public, with important information which is, or should be, intended to help us make decisions on where to eat. This would actually be MORE useful than the endless stream of ultra high end restaurants reviews some of these critics are addicted to (ahem... Frank?)
I know it's a very very demanding and important job, going to places like Per Se, Masa, The Four Seasons, Esca etc. day in and day out, but for the vast majority of people, the reviews of places like this are almost useless.
seyo at 2:06PM on 10/26/07
It's been a while, but I've always had a good time at Benihana's. Love the scallops and steak. Not sure if it's a foodie destination but it's good and fun.
ren at 2:16PM on 10/26/07
I love Carrabba's and Bonefish Grill. I have never had a bad meal at either.
http://www.carrabbas.com
http://www.bonefishgrill.com
chiff0nade at 2:31PM on 10/26/07
I, like other poster's don't eat at chains while in New York, but do so when out of town. Fav's include Legal Seafoods and Cheesecake Factory ... and I do like a lot of the steak chain's althought you have "banned" them from the competition - they are normally very reliable. Can I comment on the one's I DON'T like ... Applebees, Red Lobster, Olive Garden and Outback Steak - although, again, this is a steak chain.
lisenz at 2:59PM on 10/26/07
Hey, Ed, there is actually a Roy's in NYC, 2 blocks below Ground Zero in the Marriot hotel. I've been twice, and have had mediocre experiences both times. The Asian/Hawaiian fusion cuisine and theme is fun, but nothing I had was memorable, especially at the price paid, which may be higher than normal in New York. Admittedly, this one suffers a bit from its location. It was out-of-the-way before 9/11, but now with the Deutsche Bank demolition going on across the street it is downright obscure. I have to think that 90% of its business comes from hotel guests.
empath at 3:11PM on 10/26/07
P. F. Chang's is good, and (at least in my neck of the woods--SE Michigan) actually has some dishes I've never seen at so-called "authentic" Chinese restaurants. One of my favorites, though, is Mitchell's Fish Market (which appears to have locations across the Midwest and into Pennsylvania, at least)--head and shoulders above Red Lobster (or Green Lobster, as my in-laws call it), and not much more expensive (although it still fits the $25/person criterion). Not necessarily creative cuisine, but fresh, which is unusual this far from the coasts.
msmla at 3:55PM on 10/26/07
Can't agree more. Houston's is a definite go-to if I'm near Citicorp Center, or Roosevelt Field. I don't mind the French dip's soft roll because I'm going to soften up that mutha in the jus anyway, but yes, good bread always beats not as good bread. Their hospitality is also very southern, even up here Where The Wild Yankees Are.
Sandro at 4:29PM on 10/26/07
Ed,
Funny you should run this story this week. On Tuesday I was in NJ with a friend and both of us were craving our favorite Houston's salads. We gave in and had lunch there at the Riverside Square Mall location. The salads hit the spot - they were fresh and tasted exactly the way we've enjoyed them every other time we've been there. And both of us commented after lunch about how we consistently have a satisfying meal there. While my preference is to eat at unique restaurants there is something to be said for being able to go into a restaurant and feel confident that the meal is going to be good every time. People poo-poo chains for being cookie cutter but consistency is a Houston's standard that it wouldn't hurt other restaurateurs to embrace.
francinecohen at 6:01PM on 10/26/07
Roys, which actually did start in Hawaii, is owned by Outback Steakhouse.
The ribs at Houston's were suprising good. Went to their restaurant at Long Island's Roosevelt Field Mall, grudglingly for a meeting of a committee I served on, and was happy with the food, the wine selection and friendly service.
PF Chang's not only is reliable, the quality beats many suburban Chinese takeout joints. The same can been said for Olive Garden, when comparing with many of the pizzerizas-cum-restaurants that you see on every block and shopping center.
The barbecue at Famous Dave's isn't half bad either, though it tends to be on the salty side.
The biggest complaint I have about these better quality chains is thatt they don't accept reservations and I won't wait a hour to be seated. Oddly, some folks do!
Dixhillseats at 6:05PM on 10/26/07
foodinmouth says there's no PF Changs or Cheesecake Factories in NY. If you mean NYC, ok. Otherwise, check out their websites & locate. Out on LI there's two Cheesecake Factories...Smithhaven Mall in Lake Grove & The Mall at the Source (who names these damn things?) in Westbury. Westbury has PF Chang's as well, & Houston's is next door at the Roosevelt Field Mall. I haven't been to any of them but it's on my list of things to do.
organicgal at 6:47PM on 10/26/07
I've been to the Cheesecake Factory in Westbury. I went a few years ago when I was researching my Times story on cheesecake. I have to say the food was pretty good. Some dishes were clearly better than others, which is always the case when a menu is as big as theirs is. There must be 100 items on the Cheesecake Factory menu, not including the cheesecake.
Ed Levine at 6:54PM on 10/26/07
I though Boston Chicken was good before it became Boston Market. I like Morton's, The Palm, Legal Seafoods, The Ninety-Nine (I'm pretty sure its a North East thing- great prime rib), Maggiano's and Crackerbarrel (great pit stop on long drives!). I used to like Pizzera Uno, but my last few trips to them were disasterous.
What creeps me out is when you go to a chain that has photos of the food on the menu and the food comes out looking just liked the photo.
Do some chains start as chains or do they all grow out of one original place? I know McDonalds didn't start as a chain, but I can imagine that a place like Olive Garden was conceived as a chain.
nisung2 at 8:22PM on 10/26/07
I don't mind chains like Houston's, where the food is still prepared fresh to order. What I don't like are chains like Applebees, Olive Garden, etc, where much of the meal is pre-made and then zapped in the micro before serving. That's not worth the price tag, and one of the reasons I do like to avoid the chain restaurants if possible. Unfortch, living where I do, often times if you just feel like a lazy night out away from the kitchen, it's the chain gang or bust, and then you pick the lesser of the evils.
ErikaWaz at 10:04PM on 10/26/07
I'm not a fan of PF Changs. They use too much sugar in all their dishes. Even the hardcore meat dishes have tons of sugar in them. After a few bites, all I taste is sugar. Three hours later -- I'm hungry again.
Whereas, the RuthChris in Midtown NYC is excellent -- and most of the Legal Seafoods are wonderful. They have a fantastic New England clam chowder.
deborahs at 10:08PM on 10/26/07
Houston's is not bad at all. In fact I can honestly say they have the best "chain" cheeseburger out there. It's fantastic.
davey at 9:20AM on 10/27/07
I would agree with the Cheesecake Factory being on the list.
I will definitely have to try some of the places mentioned in southeast Michigan...
I would strongly disagree with Applebee's and Olive Garden. Yuk. A friend and I went to Applebee's once, and she asked for one of their salads but with no bleu cheese crumbles. The waiter said he couldn't do that because the crumbles were already in the salad -- WTF??
flootsmith at 9:49AM on 10/27/07
I agree with a number of the posters that Houston's is definitely consistent. But I cannot agree with the inclusion of Olive Garden. I've had to meals there in my life. The first was, at best, mediocre, and the second was abominable.
esther rebecca at 5:15PM on 10/27/07
Houston's is consistently very good at The Riverside Square location in Hackensack, NJ. My favorites are the Smoked Salmon Appetizer, Grilled Artichokes Appetizer, Seared Ahi Tuna and Thai Beef Salads. They serve a fantastic Loaded Baked Potato as well.
Anyone who is a fan of The Cheescake Factory or Houstons, My new favorite chain is The Grand Lux Cafe located in The Garden State Plaza in Paramus New Jersey. It is owned and operated by the Cheescake Factory, but more upscale, like Houston's. The original concept was designed to be put in the Bellagio Hotel Complex in Las Vegas, Nevada.
Pf Chang's and Maggiano's is also located at The Riverside Square Mall.
BastedEggs at 9:12AM on 10/28/07
I wrote to the new york Times about the desireability of chain restaurants several years ago. Here's the link: http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9E0DEED91039F932A25755C0A9659C8B63&sec=&spon=&partner=permalink&exprod=permalink
annien at 5:40PM on 10/28/07
What about Rosa Mexicano? I love that place in New York- now with DC, Palm Beach, Atlanta and Miami- i think they are great
yummy120 at 11:43AM on 10/29/07
I really like Rosa Mexicano as well, but one of the criteria we established was the chain had to have at least ten locations.
Ed Levine at 11:52AM on 10/29/07
On a local level I like P.F. Chang's. At the mid-level I have to agree with several posters re. the quality at Roy's and on the upper end I highly recommend Nobu.
takhomasak at 11:45AM on 11/02/07
what i like about houstons is that their locations have regional foods. the houston's at riverside square mall in NJ does not have the same menu as the houstons is santa monica!
YumNYC at 9:17PM on 11/02/07
Next time you go, you must order the smoked salmon appetizer served with toast points and a delicious dressing. Melt in your mouth and crazy good! I promise, you'll love it! They discontinued it and brought it back because of demand.
They used to serve a fantastic steak platter and the most outrageous mashed potatoes w/celeriac. Unfortunately they discontinued it but like the smoked salmon appetizer, I'm still hoping they'll bring it back.
redrover at 6:19PM on 11/19/07
I love Houston's. Plain and Simple. It's never disappointed and If I was forced to choose a place for my last meal, this would be it. Want to know why?
NYC Food Guy at 1:53AM on 04/01/08
Hi Ed. I just found this post while trolling the web for Houston's Key Lime Pie recipe/ingredients. I waited tables in the Rockville, MD Houston's from 1993-1995. Having seen Houston's and more than a dozen independently-owned restaurants from the waiter's side of the table, I agree with everyone's positive comments about Houston's. It's one of my go-to spots when I want to treat myself (and I live in Manhattan).
Although more personal non-chain restaurants are great, only Houston's made me memorize each ingredient in every dish before letting me serve a customer. We had line-up every night where we were quizzed on the number of ounces in the coho salmon and the marinade for the Houston's Hawaiin ribeye. I learned how to give 110% to a job and what to expect as a guest in a restaurant.
amandakkay at 11:21PM on 05/20/08