Quanjude Restaurant, a chain in Beijing, claims to sell more more than 2 million ducks a year, hung and roasted in wood-burning ovens. "Our server handed me a red-and-gold card stating that our main course would be the 115,273,748th roast duck sold by the company since it was established in 1864, the third year of Tongzhi, Qing Dynasty. The preposterous precision was a taste of the showmanship of the place, on many a tourist itinerary."

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