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Jessica Seinfeld and Missy Chase Lapine: 'Wrong, Wrong, Wrong'

20071025carrotz.jpgTheir books, which teach parents to disguise veggies in brownies, mac and cheese, and pudding, are wrong on so many levels, Mimi Sheraton writes. "First, children get the wrong message that sweets and starches are good for them." Second is "the invisibility of vegetables in their own recognizable forms. As a result, children are not afforded the opportunity to get used to the idea of trying and learning about them. Nor will they consider them necessary for good health."

Update: Cookbook Author Sues Jerry Seinfeld for Defamation [1/8/2007]

19 Comments:

Does Ms. Sheraton have kids?
Just wondering. While I agree with her theoretically, in reality, people have been doing this for years without harming the future of vegetables. My grandmother rolled carrots in sugar to get my uncle to eat them! These books are aimed at parents of picky eaters who will often go years without eating vegetables, so which is worse?

You know what else is wrong? Starting wars that nobody wants to fight, America's Next Top Model, tank tops on men, fanny packs, and the entire mySpace community.

On the grand scale of crimes against humanity, this registers barely a blip.

Methinks there's a backlash against Mrs. Seinfeld because she's Jerry wife (not that there's anything wrong with that). Are we going to reserve similar venom for the Middle East's pulverization of the chickpea into hummus? Is spanakopita just a trojan horse for spinach? Are we getting the vah-pours and clutching our pearls because V-8 Splash has carrot juice?

Face it, kids are picky little bastards. In a perfect world, you'd want your kid to enjoy braised cardoons and beet carpaccio all the while reading Proust and expanding the tenets of string theory, but sometimes you just want the petulant knave to eat something and go to bed so you can drink some strong Belgian ale and play your Wii in peace. Sheesh.

I love you flootsmith and Guilty Carnivore!

Ditto all of the comments above. Much ado about nothing!

What, no Park Slope moms out there regaling us with tales of how their 2 and 3 year olds in fact love the taste of unadulterated broccoli, brussel sprouts, and the like? There must be a serious pow-wow going on at the local Community Board tonight.

I didn't register Mimi Sheraton's comments as venemous. She is an active, long-standing professional writer experienced in writing cultural criticism focusing on the food world.

Her essay to me seemed intelligent, well-written, and persuasive. But then I do tend to agree with the points she made in the first place. :)

I posted my thoughts about the book on my blog:

http://threepotato.blogspot.com/

To sum them up, though - my mother lied to me about lamb. "It's just called lamb, sweetie, they only kill really, really old sheep."

Uh, no. That would be mutton.

Today, I'm pescetarian. So maybe I just prefer vegetables. Or maybe I learned at an early age to distrust meat. You decide.

Guilty Carnivore, my brother was exactly the Proust-reading child you mention, and everyone on the block wanted to kill him.

As the the moral rightness of vegetable-smuggling, who said you should only present the veggies one way? "Don't want your green beans, darling? Okay. Have this nice brownie instead. Tee hee!" Then explain the joke to the kid some time before she has to raise kids of her own.

Ms. Sheridan is the Dowager Empress of New York food writing. She also last fed a picky child in the late 1960's. Mrs. Seinfeld has much more recent on-the-job training.

I couldn't agree more with Ms. Sheridan. Millions of kids survive the stage of being a picky eater. Going to the extremes suggested in both the cook books mentioned by Ms. Sheridan will only further a child being a picky eater and perpetuate the problem of not like vegetables.

Actually, I thought Sheraton was right on, particularly since, as she noted, the amount of spinach that actually gets consumed in the Deceptive Brownie is something like 1 teaspoon of puree. And I doubt the relationship of children and spinach has changed a lot since the 1960s.

I don't have a kid, so I'm full of hot air. But Laurie Colwin's approach -- make the vegetables taste good -- has always seemed very sensible to me. She points out, for example, that just about everyone likes fried things, and that kids will be more likely to eat carrot sticks or cucumber sticks if they have something delicious to dip them into.

Everyone has a right to their own opinion about this, of course. Feeding one's children is a very personal thing and each parent has their own way of doing it. There has been no recipe written, traditional or not, throughout history - that has proven to make children turn out "better" - particularly if that recipe is one solely focused on food.

Do children raised on brown rice and pressed tofu sandwiches with chopped organic broccoli bits turn out to be better citizens, better parents, lovers, healthier, more capable and successful in life?

Do children raised on fast food and frozen TV dinners turn out to be criminals and lost souls, poor citizens, bad parents and friends, unhealthy and destined to be just less better people all around?

I don't think there's proof of either, though certainly there have been similar things implied now and again through history.

If a parent does not choose to force vegetables on their child when the child does not want to eat them, is it the place of someone else to say that parent is wrong or lacking in some basic way? (Particularly as parenting is a very long-term job and the final results are unknown for some many years. And also particularly due to the fact that the world has not produced The Perfect Parent - or child for that matter! - yet.)

I've seen children raised in all sorts of situations, and it does not seem to me that vegetables forced or tricked or simply accepted makes them, finally, become more what their parents and society wish for them.

There are the children who eat their vegetables up very nicely at the dinner table set by the traditional two loving parents who grow up to become things that well . . . nobody would want to believe, but the dichotomy is not that vegetables and the dinner table always equal "good" behavior through life for those that have enjoyed it.

There are the children whose parents insist on the highest levels of politically-correct food (whatever that is) be eaten. The all-vegetable all the time with a dash of tamari and some fourteen grain no-sugar dessert bars as the only allowed sweets. Those children I see hiding in the corners of pizza places with their saved allowances being spent on as much greasy pepperoni laden pizza as they can stuff in before anyone (mostly their parents) see them. If one happens across them as a parent of one of their classmates, they will beg one to "not tell on them". Goodness, child. You don't have to beg me. I won't tell.

The ado about nothing did not start with Mimi Sheraton's piece - it started with two books being written on this subject and being promoted at the same time by authors who people want to know about - particularly in terms of their areas of expertise, qualifications, and connections.

When a book is published and widely promoted (to much expense) the public wants to know if what the book says is valid. That's where the ado started, and Mimi Sheraton's response was merely part of the great system of free press that operates in this country where opinion and debate are encouraged. That's not ado about nothing. That, really, is one of the best things in life.

Upon re-reading what I wrote the realization hit me that in my quest to try to prove that the road to hell is paved with good intentions it may have sounded like I'm anti-vegetable.

Must add that I'm not.

Embrace the vegetable. Love it.
Ohhmmmmm.

in my work as a pediatric occupational therapist, i've known many kids who were such incredibly picky eaters that they were seriously nutritionally compromised. i agree that baking a teaspoon of spinach into a pan of brownies is a bit silly, but i've often suggested to mothers who are desperate for their kids to consume anything healthy that they do things like hide veggie purees in peanut butter sandwiches and pancakes. many children do outgrow their picky eating issues {one friend tells me that when his parents took him to europe as a ten year old, he ate only spaghetti with butter from one end of the continent to the other; as an adult, he introduced me to escargot} but for the growing number of children who live with sensory and autistic spectrum issues, and subsist on very limited, very unhealthy diets until puberty and beyond, it is a real problem.

As with anything, I think a bit of common sense would prevail here. So, if your kids won't eat anything vegetable related, I think one could continue to expose them to various types and presentations of veggies to encourage them to expand their little palates, all the while improving their health and well-being by "sneaking" in some extra plant life into their diets with these creative methods. Haven't parents been putting cheese sauce on broccoli for years for the same reason?

Like other commenters, I don't have kids of my own, so I suppose I don't have a leg to stand on, but I have children with whom I'm very close in my family, and I have treated children and adults with food aversions in my work, so I think I might have a clue.

Thank you Mimi! This sneaky, deceptive approach is off the mark and off-putting to boot. Our children are only as picky as we allow them to be. Pulling one over on them won't change that fact.

I have 3 children, ages 9 - 14, and let me tell you.....I've been doing the right thing since they started eating solid foods. Each evening, I put vegetables on their plates, and each evening the dog ends up eating at least one child's veggies! I've read over and over that if you put veggies on a kid's plate, after a while they will eat them. It seems the experts have not met my kids.

So, I bought the Seinfeld cookbook and guess what! The kids are eating and enjoying the food nightly. We play a game called "Guess What the Secret Ingredients Are" and have fun with it. They even want to help me cook! The good news is that they are now asking for my homemade chicken nuggets (made with sweet potato and broccoli purees and flaxmeal) instead of begging for McDonald's!

I'm still putting veggies on their plates, and the kids are even eating a few of them now.

Kudos to Jessica! With her help, my kids are eating better than ever before.

You are all bad parents. All of you. My children are made to stay in the shed until all the vegemite placed before them has been eaten. I don't dress it up or nuthin'. Only then may they come inside. On Sunday they're allowed to bathe.

I have trouble believing that slipping vegetable into baked goods would work... I don't know that my brother and I were any more sensitive to texture and taste nuances than any other monstrously picky kids, but we would have been onto veg-laced baked goods in a flash. And wouldn't have eaten them.
I'd imagine that if a kid is open-minded enough to eat broccoli brownies (or whatever they may be), there has got to be SOME fruit or vegetable that they'll also eat in its recognisable form.

My boyfriend and his brother dislike vegetables. Their mother is a diligent gardener, and did her best to make certain that, growing up, the two boys had lots of healthy vegetables and fruit. Unfortunately, this being Denmark, the most exquisite and carefully grown produce is... boiled. Boiled until it is squishy, for a good half hour, generally (the process: dump veg in a pot of boiling water, and cook the rest of the food; when the rest of the food is done, remove vegetables from their watery grave). Fruit that is not eaten fresh is given a similar treatment, and put up in jars.

I grew up in Italy, and had a very different vegetable upbringing; my mum usually speedily sauteed vegetables until their colour was just heightened, and served them; sometimes they were roasted. I didn't eat everything my mother cooked, but on the whole, I like vegetables.

I'm not a food missionary, but I've always believed that each time you find something you really appreciate, the universe expands a bit for you. Life gets bigger. So I decided to carefully introduce some of the more pleasurable vegetable to my boyfriend (I know this sounds like I'm way off-topic, but I don't think that there is that much difference between the vegetable-rejecting adult or child). I didn't want to make an issue of it, because I like to relax at mealtimes. I knew that raw carrots, bell-peppers, peas, green beans, things of that sort, were already 'in'. I'd also seen my boyfriend eat beech leaf-buds in early spring; they taste like new peas. So I decided to make baby asparagus (the tips resemble beech leaf-buds) my first effort. I casually passed him the tip of one of the raw ones, and it went down well; I offered to serve them raw, or briefly stir-fried, and stir-fried they were. And they were a hit. I know some things will probably never be eaten, so I don't bother. But there are a lot of cooked vegetables that are now greeted with enthusiasm.

With kids, there is a window of opportunity, when they are about a year old and cheerily putting everything in their mouths, and during which its possible to establish later flexible eating patterns. It makes sense to take advantage of this, since it means that later on, there will be far fewer things that are 'ew, weird' to the kid (if the bairn doesn't take to broccoli and the like during this period, it's going to be more or less of a wash until adulthood). It also makes sense to prepare the the food so it tastes good; I don't mean complicated, time-consuming prep., just briefly cooked so that the appearance, texture, and taste are attractive (i.e. not grey/khaki/squishy/stringy/bitter). And I'd not waste my energy on trying to introduce ANY vegetable-avoiding individual to any of the crucifers.

If someone wants to doctor cake and cookies so that they contain vegetables, I suppose that's fine (although I do wonder how much of their nutritional value survives the baking process), but it seems that taking these same vegetables and stir-frying, roasting, or just washing, slicing, and serving them raw would be a better long-term strategy for getting produce into a kid's (or adults's) diet.

I use the recipes and the concept outlined in the Sneaky Chef and have found it to be very effective. I still offer my children whole fruits and vegetables through out the day, along with extra helpings of puree added to their other foods. I do not lie to my children about what is in their food. There is no need to - it tastes great - that's all that matters to them!

For those who say that the amounts of puree added are too small to matter - I disagree. Over the course of a day, my son will average about 8 Tablespoons of extra vegetables added to his "normal" meals. This is in addition to other whole fruits and vegetables throughout the day. These extra tablespoons are concentrated amounts. It takes 3 packed cups of raw spinach leaves to produce about half a cup of pureed spinach. So this morning while devouring a delicious pancake and a milkshake, my son, ate the equivalent of a cup of spinach leaves. (That was before he'd even touched the blueberries scattered on top of his pancake.)

How far do you think I'd get if I sat him down for breakfast before a plate overflowing with that amount of raw spinach?!

Over the course of a week, he eats about 56 tablespoons of these extra's without ever compromising the taste of a meal. Using the spinach example, that would be the eqivalent of 33 cups of raw spinach! I'm sold!

It takes very little extra work and it's a huge weight off my mind to know that my children are getting the nutrients they need.

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