Southern Foodways: Deke Baskin's Goat Roasts
Southern Foodways appears on Fridays as part of our collaboration with the Southern Foodways Alliance, an organization based in Oxford, Mississippi, that "documents and celebrates the diverse food cultures of the American South." Dig in!
Goat, anyone?
Goat is gaining popularity in the South. Mild in flavor, low in cholesterol, and high in demand. Worldwide, goat meat accounts for 63 percent of all red meat consumption. Thanks to growing immigrant populations in the American South, it is easier to find now than even just ten years ago.
Here in Mississippi, this emerging trend is actually a time-honored tradition. No one seems to know the origin of the practice, though the tie is likely to the Caribbean.
Goat roasts have been a part of Lafayette County family gatherings for at least the last 60 or 70 years.
Deke Baskin (pictured) has roasted goats for community picnics for nearly 35 years. He learned the art from a family member who did it for 30 years before him. A goat roast features a crowd of people, side dishes such as slaw and corn on the cob, and music. Here in Lafayette County, the music is likely to come from a string band. In nearby Panola and Tate Counties, the music is fife and drum.
Deke won’t share his entire recipe or even its details—just the broad strokes.
Goats are too lean to simply grill. If you try that, you’ll end up with meat too tough to eat. Quarter the goat and place it in a large washtub (or very large pot). Pour in enough water to cover. Add quartered onion, large pieces of celery, green pepper chunks, some Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper (plus some other things Deke won’t share). Bring it to a boil. Boil until the meat starts to pull away from the bone and feel tender. Remove it from the water, pat dry, cover it in a spice rub (another of Deke’s secrets) and put it on a hot grill. Goats cannot be grilled over direct heat so move the coals to one side and place the goat on the other side. Grill until the skin is crispy.
To learn more about Deke and barbecue in Lafayette County, Mississippi, download this podcast: How to Cook a Hog, an Interview With Deke Baskin [mp3]
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