I'll Take (a) Manhattan
In a recent article in the San Francisco Chronicle, drinks expert Gary Regan delved into the long history and rich character of the most regal and storied of cocktails.
No, not the Martini.
Titled “The Manhattan Project,” Regan’s article covers that other legendary drink served in a V-shaped glass. Of the same generation as the gin-based Martini, the whiskey-based Manhattan enjoyed greater prominence and popularity for decades. Even after Prohibition, the Manhattan continued to rival the Martini for dominance at the bar until a demand for lighter spirits—coupled with the ascendance of vodka and, later, the Margarita—pushed the Manhattan into semi-retirement as king of the cocktail heap.
I’ve always thought of the Manhattan–Martini divide much as I have the difference between dog people and cat people. While you can certainly love both, there’s one that will always have a special place in your heart, whether it’s the crisp, dry, reverential notes of the Martini or the more lush, robust, belly-laugh of the Manhattan.
As Regan points out, this old liquid raconteur is getting its second wind. The resurgence of rye whiskey has helped—while you’re still more likely to find them made with bourbon, Manhattans were originally mixed with rye—as has the growing interest among bartenders in using different types of bitters and vermouth. For a new-fangled Manhattan you can try the drink served at Bourbon & Branch in San Francisco, which is made with Eagle Rare ten-year-old bourbon, Averna and house-made bitters, or you can reach back to Tammany Hall days by mixing yourself a classic Manhattan with Rittenhouse 100-proof rye whiskey, sweet vermouth (Carpano Antica is a lovely, old-style vermouth), a couple of dashes of Fee Brothers' Whiskey-Barrel-Aged Aromatic Bitters, and a dash or two of maraschino liqueur or, better yet, absinthe. And yes, you can still garnish it with a cherry.
Are you a Martini or a Manhattan person? And how would you like it?
About the author: Paul Clarke blogs about cocktails at The Cocktail Chronicles and writes regularly on spirits and cocktails for Imbibe magazine. He lives in Seattle, where he works as a writer and magazine editor.
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15 Comments:
Rye Manhattan girl. I also love Rye Old Fashioneds and Sidecars.
dksbook at 4:16PM on 09/26/07
Since I love Old-Fashioneds so much, I definitely prefer Manhattans over Martinis. I use bourbon for both.
Marvin at 4:26PM on 09/26/07
It's a close, close call. But I'll take a Manhattan, too. I'm also about as equally torn on the question of Bourbon vs. Rye as I am Manhattan vs. Martini. A slight preference for Bourbon (Knob Creek, usually) over Rye (Sazerac 18 year old).
Either way, all of my drinks are getting Vya vermouths.
ccbweb at 5:19PM on 09/26/07
I love Manhattans. My dad makes them with rye, I make them with bourbon. Both are good. I use Angostura Bitters (the only kind I can find), Maker's Mark, sweet vermouth, and a cherry. I also twist a bit of orange peel so that the oils coat the inside of the glass. Mmmm. Is it cocktail hour yet?
Library Lady at 5:20PM on 09/26/07
Manhattan.
I like mine with rye, but was taught to use the cheapest bourbon on hand.
The logic being that the bitters & vermouth are there to sand the rough edges off of the bourbon. Therefore if you start off with an already smooth bourbon, you will have a less lively drink; The rougher (cheaper) the bourbon, the more character the Manhattan will have.
Can anyone back me up?
ajeys at 6:01PM on 09/26/07
Ajeys, that's always been my thought on the matter, but if I have a very spicey or peaty wiskey around I might use that for similar reasons.
I actually like mine on the rocks because even when I'm stone cold sober I find it impossible to avoid spilling a full martini glass.
OneEyedMan at 6:06PM on 09/26/07
I like both equally. Both being my favorite drinks to order at a bar. I have even had multiple waitresses/bartenders compliment me on the choice to order a manhattan!
chrisfurniss at 6:20PM on 09/26/07
I cannot give a rational arguement for this, but I prefer Ketel One Martinis in warm weather and Crown Royal Manhattans in the winter.
If Crown Royal's unavailable CC suffices.
I order both drinks straight up with ice on the side so I get the Martini glass and ice when the drink gets too warm.
It's like rooting for the Yankees or the Mets. Being a New Yorker, I root for them both; and when they play each other I have a real problem.
toolminer at 6:36PM on 09/26/07
1. If there's rye around, I'll have a Manhattan - perfect, with Vya vermouth, please, and a twist. Don't be stingy with the bitters.
2. If there's Junipero or Juniper Green gin on hand, I'll take my martini with Vya (seriously - that's some incredible vermouth), a drop or two of Scotch (mmm...smoky...) and no olive.
3. If neither of those gins are available, I'll skip the martini, and take a Manhattan with bourbon - perfect, but with a cherry.
NEVER a vodka martini. The very idea of them makes me sad.
katkinsman at 7:15PM on 09/26/07
Katkinsman.......makes me sad too
Kim Nyland at 7:59PM on 09/26/07
Not really a Manhattan. but I've been drinking Jack Daniels with a large splash of bitters and a lemon twist.
coolname at 9:34PM on 09/26/07
Manhattans have been my drink of choice for years when I am having a cocktail. I prefer Maker's in mine, and two cherries, please.
carriebwc at 9:42AM on 09/27/07
me, i'm single-handedly bringing back the Sazerac
drinkboy at 9:53AM on 09/27/07
Yay, Sazeracs! I had one at Herbsaint in New Orleans and it was heavenly!
Library Lady at 3:06PM on 09/27/07
Are you a Martini or a Manhattan person? And how would you like it?
Manhattan, without a doubt. The best Manhattan I've ever had is the Midtown Manhattan at Bel Ami created by J. Morgenthaler made with Rittenhouse 100 rye and Carpano Antica Formula vermouth.
http://www.jeffreymorgenthaler.com/2008/mixology-monday-variations-mix-treme-makeover-edition/
heckler at 9:14PM on 07/20/08