'Top Chef': A Chill in the Air
As the show opens, we're down to ten contestants. This week's guest judge is Rocco DiSpirito, he of his own culinary reality series, The Restaurant, which originally aired in 2003 and was asked to pack its knives and go after two brutal seasons. Rocco and Padma announce that the Quickfire Challenge this week will be a cooking "bee"—a quiz where the chefs are asked to identify ingredients by either sight or taste. Miss one and you're out. Get more items right than anyone else and you've won immunity. [Warning: Spoilers after the jump; click at your own risk. ]
Most of the contestants quickly go down in flames. Howie, Hung, Casey, and Brian distinguish themselves by lasting more than two rounds. Long story short: Casey beat out Brian in the sixth round. Brian ended up getting stumped by a bowl of Japanese eggplant. To his credit, it did seem like a tough vegetable to name in less than five seconds. To Casey's credit, she very quickly identified bow-tie pasta. It took her, like, two seconds, tops. All in all, it was nice to see a different kind of Quickfire. I hope the producers have more of this kind of variety in store.
On to the Elimination Challenge, which was prefaced by perhaps the most embarrassing product placements yet. In order to set up the challenge, DiSpirito was given the sad task of extolling the virtues of Bertoli's 10-Minute Frozen Pasta. Um, awkward. Yet he powered through it like a pro—a pro who recognizes that frozen foods are, as Padma informs us, a multibillion dollar industry. What an inspiration for the young chefs! It was really very touching. I think I may have cried a little just then.
The challenge itself was to create a frozen Italian meal that could go from freezer to plate in ten minutes. The chefs would team up in pairs and collaborate, with $100 to shop, two hours to cook, and one hour to get their meals out of the freezer and into 15 individual containers.
Some teams worked better than others, naturally. Tre and CJ shared the same wavelength and, knowing their personalities, each would've gotten along great with any of the chefs. As it was, they were practically telepathic in their cooperation. In the same vein, Dale and Casey were just like a two schoolgirls at the mall. They seemed to have the most fun with the challenge and, unlike the last time she had immunity on a team effort, Casey made sure she took care of business.
On the less functional side were Hung and Joey, who seemed like they were going to be a powerful nerd-meets-caveman kind of team. Unfortunately, the brainy Hung couldn't really get his point of view across to the intensely focused Joey. In the end, their tricolor fusilli and tomato sauce dish reflected badly on the partnership.
Similarly, albeit in their own imitable way, Howie and Sara (the cheesemaker) hated working together. Of course, judging by this and previous group outings, Howie doesn't seem like the best compromiser or communicator. In fact, if Howie were cloned and asked to partner with himself, it seems fairly likely that things would end in a bare-knuckle boxing match. Needless to say, Sara did what she could to stay out of Howie's way and needled him just enough to be able to honestly deflect judge Tom Colicchio's assertion that she "didn't seem to do much" on this challenge. I think she did a lot. She managed to survive three hours with Howie as her partner. It must have been the hot tub.
The morale of the story: Happy teams make happy-tasting food. Unhappy teams make crap. Tre and CJ were the only contestants who went to school on the appropriate freezing method for a meal that is meant to be prepared in a skillet in less than ten minutes. By individually freezing each ingredient, the pair produced a nicely presented, moist dish of linguine with Italian kale, black truffle, tomato confit, and grilled chicken. Most everyone else ended up with a solid brick of food that suffered from uneven heating or ingredients interacting too much in the freezer. Dale and Casey's pesto-slathered orecchiette and meatballs came in a strong second, but ultimately, it was Tre and CJ who won the challenge and the bonus prize—a trip to Italy for each of them and a guest, where they will presumably dine like Medicis on the finest frozen pasta in Europe.
On the other end of the spectrum, Hung, Joey, Howie, and Sara were soundly chastised by the judges for not working smart, working well, or delivering decent-tasting food. In the end, it was perhaps the fact that Joey and Hung couldn't give away a single bag of their food to the supermarket consumers who helped judge the competition that doomed one of them to ex-chef status. The judges faced a difficult decision between eliminating Hung, who had clearly known the appropriate way to freeze the meal, and ditching Joey, who owned up to both his lack of understanding about freezing techniques and his lack of good listening skills.
As the ax fell, it did seem like the judges made the right choice. Joey headed home, having done a lot of redeem himself from the initial impression he gave of being a complete raging asshole. He produced some good dishes, earned the acceptance of colleagues that he'd fought with, and generally went out as a likable guy. And, in a moment that was simultaneously excruciating and endearing, Joey set a new record for tears shed in an exit interview. One can only imagine the razzing that he'll endure in the kitchen this morning. Undoubtedly, he'll manage it with his head held high.
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16 Comments:
why did sara, who has done absolutely nothing to distinguish herself all season get to stay? she should have gone home.
carriebwc at 10:33AM on 08/02/07
I think that's a valid point, although the judges insist that each challenge is an absolutely clean slate. Perhaps it's unrealistic to imagine that they are completely ignoring past accomplishments, but I could see them avoiding "He/She has never impressed us" lines of discussion. Someday, it would be nice to get a bonus clip (online, maybe), where we get to see a full unedited 10 minutes of deliberation. They've never really aired more than 5 or 10 seconds of discussion at a time.
Harold Check at 10:52AM on 08/02/07
I have to admit, I'm not a huge fan of Top Chef, so I watch it rarely, but this type of judging discrepancy has dinged a number of talented designers on Project Runway (notably Alison from Season 3, who was booted before that hack nutjob Vincent).
Adam Kuban at 12:02PM on 08/02/07
I agree, Sara, besides making the fresh cheese for the chile relleno, hasn't pulled her weight all season, Lia was 100 times more competent and a far better chef than Sara yet she got ditched for braving a cuisine she wasn't familiar with. I think they need to start taking past performances into consideration when judging; after all, if someone's gonna win $100k to open a restaurant don't you want consistency in your investment?
kitchenlove at 12:31PM on 08/02/07
Shouldn't Rocco be delivered from food world hell. Any one who has eaten the food at Union Pacific knows he deserves better than this.
Dish at 2:10PM on 08/02/07
Am I the only one that "rubber-necks" this show like it were a roadside accident at rush hour? Over-the-top product placement, a host that, seemingly, brings no applicable culinary expertise to the mix other than, perhaps, having eaten in restauranst and her eye-candy appeal, "professional" chefs who can't work together for the betterment of their end product and tears, tears and more tears! I've worked in a pro-kitchen for a Master Chef for 5 years and the only time I've seen tears in (or around) the kitchen were onion-generated or death/serious accident in the immediate family! Hell, these contestants can barely follow the simple challenge-specific, directions!
OH WELL, on the positive side... it's, certainly, better than The Next Network Star, The Restaurant and Hell's Kitchen (does anyone, actually, know what this winner receives?) professional culinarian embarrassments (have I mentioned crying in the kitchen, lately?).
StLouChef at 3:02PM on 08/02/07
Rocco has signed as a spokesperson for Bertolli. That's why he was the guest judge for this challenge.
Lilly Tao at 4:48AM on 08/03/07
totally off topic, and i'm going to get catty here, but has rocco had "work" done? he seems a little young for it, but his face just doesn't look the same as it did when he was on The Restaurant.
french tart at 7:19AM on 08/03/07
Tart, that's not off-topic at all. I was going to say something in the write-up, but, well, I couldn't figure out a way to do it gracefully. Although, I wasn't sure if it was surgery or not enough time with the make-up crew.
Harold Check at 8:44AM on 08/03/07
maybe it's botox? there's just something off about his face.
french tart at 8:51AM on 08/03/07
re: rocco. o he's had WORK. see awfulplasticsurgery.com. he's had a deal with bertolli for quite a while now. it's such a pity with him. his cooking was sublime when he broke. his story should be a cautionary tale to all chefs who (particularly those contestants on top chef) want celebrity over acknowledgement for their talents.
you know, i think tom colicchio has suffered as a consequence of this as well. who takes him seriously as a chef any more. one of these days i will write about my experience at craft the first week or two it opened. it was hilarious.
on a more practical note. this show was very illuminating with respect to freezing. i never liked freezing food and reheating food. it always changes its texture. now i see if you freeze it separately, the outcome is likely far better.
Dish at 9:53AM on 08/03/07
I have to say that I wondered if Rocco was sedated to get through his embaressing part in that episode. I only know him from the embaressing The Restaurant and Bourdain's writings, but surely that must have been hard for him to do...he seems to have talent/potential to spare when not led down the wrong path....
Cary at 12:58PM on 08/03/07
Bourdain subbed for Colicchio again for this week's Top Chef blog and compared Rocco's new appearance to David Gest's.
I actually really didn't enjoy the "no-cook" Quickfire - it's one of my favorite parts of the show, because it's all about the cooking and the food - something that I wish we'd see even more of on the show. Yay, Casey can identify bowtie pasta. We didn't even get a "farfalle" out of her! Anyone else agree?
rebeccadiamond at 2:34PM on 08/03/07
I disagree, a bit in that this was a good opportunity for these "top chefs" to demonstrate their culinary product knowledge (although they could have chosen a more balanced and fair selection of items to identify). I agree with your more accurate "farfalle" observation and, to my eye... the "Japanese eggplant" (long, slender, thin-skinned) looked much more like a "Thai eggplant" (golf-ball sized) variety!
StLouChef at 4:11PM on 08/04/07
Casey, simply answered the questions that were given to her, that is all you can do. As I recall, Howie (the chief complainer in this scenario) got some real brain-busters for questions too, like identifying tomato paste and cheese slicer. Somebody, should have showed him a bandana, given his propensity for seasoning his dishes with glandular secretions. As one who has been generally been supportive of Howie throughout his bi-weekly crashes and Phoenix like ascents, I think he just needs to shut his mouth and focus on cooking for the balance of the competition. His edit on the show is going from the articulate loveable lug to surly shithead rather quickly.
Anthony A at 9:50AM on 08/05/07
Rocco is not the first chef to lend his name to promote frozen foods or ready to serve sauces from a jar. This in and of itself should not qualify chefs as sell-outs and objects of public scorn. Mario Batali has recently given his name to a Progresso Meal line and Wolfgang Puck was peddling frozen pizzas before this whole celebrity chef thing even hit it's stride. Yet very few people dispute their credentials as great chefs and cut them considerable slack in the wake of these projects.
The reason why we all castigate Rocco, is we got too see a once serious chef from the comfort of our living rooms, erect and destroy a simple Red Sauce place in less than a year, and in the process treat all people associated with the enterprise rather shabbily.
Running restaurants and being a chef is grueling work, so I can see the temptation to grab the brass ring of celebrity after paying your dues behind the stove. However, in Rocco's case he continually elects to take short term gigs for easy money rather than rebuild his reputation by using his prodigous talents as a cook once again. He should follow the example of his former mentor Gray Kunz, who has travelled a diametrically opposite path by eschewing the limelight since relinquishing his toque at Lespinasse in the late 90's. The result has been the very well the received Cafe Gray and another midtown venture to open in the fall, plus plans to open a French Laundry like shangra la of gastronomy in upstate NY in the not too distant future. This path is a bit more laborious and a lot less sexy, but it would do Rocco a world of good since Americans love nothing much more a good tale of redemption.
Personally, I feel more sadness than disdain for Rocco DiSpirito.Nothing is more depressing than a case of squandered talent. Many people, myself included, would be ecstacic to have a fraction of the ability and would love to duplicate the culinary magic that was created during his halcyon days at Union Pacific. Instead it appears that in the wake of last week's spectacle, that he is inadvertently hell bent on becoming the embodiment of the Terry Malloy character in that great movie "On the Waterfront". Despite one shameless propaganda stunt after another he elects to" take the dives the for short term money "and throw away his God given talent to cash in on "his one way ticket to Palookaville". Unfortunately, talent is not a substitute for critical self-reflection and the need to unearth in the depths of your soul an untapped reservoir of humility.
Anthony A at 1:04PM on 08/05/07