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The Serious Eats Sushi Roll

So, Serious Eaters, armed with Nick Tosches's sensible and comprehensible sushi criteria, which you are free to ignore if you have your own set of standards, we are going to put together the ultimate sushi finder's list in any city or country Serious Eaters have eaten in. I am going to reach out to all the constituencies in the Serious Eats universe: the legion of passionate and discerning community members and my restaurant critic and food editor friends and acquaintances around the world who often weigh in on things they care about on the site. Please give us names, addresses, phone numbers, and ZIP codes in your write-up along with a sentence or two about what makes the place unique or distinctive. In other words, tell us its story, so that we know why we should care about the place. You can also feel free to second somebody else's choice or choices.

Editor's note: All good sushi is expensive. Cheap sushi is a contradiction in terms. Some places are cheaper than others, but, apart from a few lunch specials, it is hard for me to imagine spending less than $50 for a good sushi meal. You can get edible sushi for less, but it's never going to be great. It can be good enough to eat and enjoy, but that's about it. That's just the way it is with sushi. I'm sorry.

I am going to start the Serious Eats Sushi Roll rolling with a few New York City picks:

Blue Ribbon (Brooklyn)
The Bromberg Brothers, AKA the Blue Ribbon Boys, serve up serious, appropriately pricey and reasonably authentic sushi in both locations.
280 5th Avenue, 11215
(718) 840-0404

Blue Ribbon Sushi (Manhattan)
See above.
119 Sullivan Street, 10012
(212) 343-0404

Bond Street
The original downtown bastion of high quality, creative sushi.
6 Bond Street, 10012
(212) 777-2500

15 East
Marco Moreira of Toqueville hired a former Jewel Bako sushi chef to solid effect.
15 E 15th Street, 10003
(212) 647-0015

Hatsuhana
Old midtown (two locations) serious corporate sushi standby. Haven't been in many years.
237 Park Ave, 10017
(212) 661-3400
(212) 286-0980

Jewel Bako
Jack Lamb's tiny ode to pristine sushi preparations.
239 E 5th Street, 10003
(212) 979-1012

Kuruma Zushi
The seminal serious midtown sushi emporium, located on the second floor of a nondescipt office building. I have spent a couple of hundred dollars here without even trying.
7 E 47th Street # 2, 10017
(212) 317-2802

Masa
Yes, it's the most expensive restaurant in America, but by all accounts (including mine) it's worth every penny. The same cannot be said for Bar Masa, which in my mind is nothing special.
10 Columbus Circle, 10019
(212) 823-9800

Nobu
Purists scoff, but I have had lots of truly delicious sushi at Nobu. The tiradito can't be beat.
105 Hudson Street, 10013
(212) 219-0500

Nobu 57
See above
40 W 57th Street, 10019
(212) 757-3000

Soto
Atlanta's mad sushi master has come to New York and delivered the goods.
357 Avenue of the Americas, 10014
(212) 414-3088

Sushi of Gari (East Side)
Pricey, new wave sushi, not all that authentic. Serious sushi mavens are split on Sushi of Gari
402 E 78th Street, 10021
(212) 517-5340

Sushi of Gari (West Side
See above.
347 W 46th Street, 10036
(212) 957-0046

Sushi Sasabune
Another Los Angeles sushi transplant (Masa was the first) that successfully made the trip east. Choice freaks should note that like Masa, Sasabune is omakase (chef's choice) only.
401 E 73rd Street, 10021
(212) 249-8583

Sushi Seki
Modest digs, late hours, and serious raw fish make this an unusual Upper East Side hipster hangout.
1143 1st Ave, 10021
(212) 371-0238

Sushi Yasuda
Super-serious sushi joint near Grand Central Station where Japanese businessman spend big bucks when they're in town.
204 E 43rd Street, 10017
(212) 972-1001

Sushi Zen
Where the editors of Gourmet and Bon Appetit go for sushi. If they deem you sufficiently serious, you can get a terrific omakase sushi meal here.
108 W 44th Street, 10036
(212) 302-0707

Ushiwakamaru
Frank Bruni recently reviewed this modest West Village restaurant and said if you choose your fish carefully, you can eat very well for a surprisingly modest sum.
136 W Houston Street, 10012
(212) 228-4181

This is only the beginning. By the time we're finished with our sushi log roll, sushi eaters all over the world can leave the house knowing how close they are to great sushi.

25 Comments:

TARO SUSHI
Address: 446 Dean Street, Brooklyn NY 11217 [map]
Phone: 718-398-0872
Forget the Brooklyn outpost of Blue Ribbon Sushi. Taro Sushi is my favorite place in Park Slope. It ain't nothin' to look at, and the preparations are simple and straightforward, but the owner, Sano Yuji, pays particular attention to the quality of fish and ingredients he uses. And the price is reasonable—you certainly don't feel like you're paying off Sano's interior design debt or his rent on a cavernous space.

Adam, don't disclose these secrets! But I strongly second your vote.
What's the word from Serious Eaters about Morimoto?

Oh wow, sushi. I've been to MANY a place but here would be my recommendations:

KAMEHACHI
Location: Many locations throughout Chicagoland, for a list click here.
Description: Not too expensive, yet deliciously fresh sushi! You can see a whole bar of chefs preparing the sushi on the spot, and it comes out beautifully!

KYOJIN
Location: 4 different locations throughout Southern Florida, click here for listings.
Description: An All-You-Can-Eat sushi buffet with fresh, quality sushi! What more could you ask for? Oh, did you want other foods like all the tempura you can handle, or hibachi too? That's included!

I look forward to everyone else's contributions!

Hillary
Chew on That

I can speak out about Morimoto's flagship eatery in Philly: it's wonderful. Sleek, stylish and plenty expensive with flavorful and varied fish options and practiced chefs. Sake's not bad either. But it isn't my favorite in town. I love Zento, owned by Morimoto-alum and sushi master Gunawan Wibisono. (Web site: http://www.zentocontemporary.com ) The house specialty, a square roll, combines eel, avocado, plum paste and tuna plus a sweet-savory drizzle of sauce. Yum. An order of tuna or salmon tar tare highlights the flavor and quality of the fish, but even fish-free options like sweet potato tempura roll are really, really tasty. If you go, stick to sushi—the kitchen isn't up to the same level as the sushi bar.

This summer I spent a month in Los Angeles, and one of my goals was trying out as many sushi places as I could. We ended up eating a lot of sushi... I did go for known favorites. I read up in advance on sushi websites like citysearch and chowhound.com to avoid having too much mediocre or just plain bad sushi. The funny thing was that I went to LA thinking I was mostly into fusion and modern sushi, while I actually turned out to be quite a traditionalist...

My favorite 5 (of the ones we went to!) were:
1) Asanebo - Studio City. Expensive, but fantastico!!!!
2) Sushi Gen - Little Tokyo. The real deal. Amazing food.
3) Sen Nari Sushi - Gardena. Also very proper Japanese.
4) Ike Sushi - Hollywood. Down to earth, "piss off if you want modern rolls" kind of place.
5) Sushi Go 55 - Little Tokyo. Very Japanese too.

Sushi in LA is expensive, you will have to expect to spend around $50 or more. But it is gooood.

Shiro's

Shiro Kashiba has been a making sushi for over 40 years in Seattle, He is a true artist, utilizing ingredients from the Northwest such as smelt, geoducks and matsutake. Go.

2491 Second Avenue
Seattle, Washington

I was really surprised and pleased with Morimoto. Not a fan of giant restaurants, but sitting at the sushi bar, we were treated well and really happy with the food. They have a small plate of spicy grilled king crab legs that I swore was one of the five best things I've ever eaten at a sushi place... although all the house sake we were drinking may have had something to do with it. Everything we had was fresh, cold, cut like jewels, and interesting.

Komegashi Too in Jersey City at Newport

Hola from Manila in the Philippines!

I've had the pleasure of eating in some of the best sushi joints on both coasts of the US (some of my favorites in the East Coast: Sushi Yasuda, Jewel Bako, and Sushi of Gari) and some in Hong Kong and Singapore. But I must say that we have a select few over here in our shores that can hold their own against the best anywhere (a mean feat considering that Japan gets the bulk of our best sushi grade seafood! BOO!!!)

So, if you're ever in Manila, do check out:

INAGIKU
Location: 2nd Floor, Shangri-La Makati Hotel, Ayala Avenue at Makati Avenue, Makati City 1200 Tel. (63 2) 813 8888
Description: Yeah, I know it's in a fancy hotel, but trust me - it's worth it! When the hotel decided to renovate their Japanese restaurant, they also brought in an award winning sushi chef from Japan who was only supposed to stay for a couple of months but hasn't left since. My favorite? Engawa - a muscle that controls the fin of halibut. He carefully grills it with a blowtorch and brushes it ever so lightly with a slightly sweet sauce then envelopes it around a perfectly made ball of sushi rice. Makes you want to lick your fingers..

SUSHI TSUMURA
Location: 3rd Floor, Bankwise Bldg., Paseo De Roxas, Makati City 1200 Tel. (63 2) 812 8393
Description: Located in a nondescript building in the central business district, Sushi Tsumura to some is the best in the whole land. Though I don't totally agree that they're the best, their sushi is top notch most of the time (Yes, I've had mediocre sushi here.. but not often. Everyone has their bad days..) Nothing too funky here, but great on the tried and tested: Ikura, Unagi, Hamachi, Toro, Ama-ebi, etc. Most definitely worth the trip! Visit the sister restaurant as well -- KURATAKE over at Powerplant Mall, Lopez Drive, Rockwell Centre, Makati City Tel. (63 2) 8980509

SUSHI KAPPO KOBIKI-CHO
Location: Ground Floor, JAKA II Bldg., 150 Legaspi St., Legaspi Village, Makati City Tel. (63 2) 7521280
Description: My newest discovery! Owned by the Japanese boss of my boxing trainer (funny, eh?) and located in a building that you will most probably drive by without noticing, SUSHI KAPPO KOBIKI-CHO serves some of the most exquisite sushi (dare I say this?) EVER, ANYWHERE. Toro that melts like butter in your mouth, the sweetest Uni, the softest cuttlefish ever, and the best MAGURO EVER!!! Maguro (Tuna) was my first ever sushi experience, so it's always been special to me, but never have I been as rapturous about Maguro than when I had it in Sushi Kappo Kobiki-Cho. My mouth waters as I write about it! MUST EAT IT!!! PLEASE GO!!! The only bad thing is that it's expensive for Manila standards, and the morsels of food are on the smallish side (after my first and only meal there, I got hungry about an hour later and went on a hotdog run). Then again, everything you put into your mouth is imported from Japan, so go figure. Go on a special occassion (payday, perhaps?) but by all means GO!

Any NYC list about serious sushi has got to include Kanoyama!

175 Second Ave.,
New York, NY 10003
at 11th St.
212-777-5266

DC-area shout-out goes to:

Sushi-Ko
2309 Wisconsin Avenue NW
Washington, DC 20016
Phone: 202.333.4187

Makoto (and the cheaper Kotobuki upstairs)
4822 MacArthur Blvd. NW
Washington, DC 20007
Phone: 202.298.6866

If you're in the Fort Lauderdale area, the best place to go is Daimatsu Sushi in Boca Raton. This small restaurant is owned and operated by actual Japanese people -- which isn't that common in sushi restaurants down here. Definitely try some of the appetizers in addition to the sushi, as they have things that you won't find anywhere else.

Dominic
the zen kitchen

I also made a list of my favorites in Oslo, Norway. It might not be the best place in the world to get sushi, but we have a couple of good ones. Here goes.

1) Nodee, Majorstua - apparently, everybody's favorites in Oslo... And it is great, so just get in line!!
2) Nippon Art, Sentrum - it just feels more genuine than Alex
3) Alex Sushi, Solli plass - it is great. But still shi shi and expensive.

Morimoto NYC is delicious. But I'm biased because when I went, Masaharu Morimoto was actually there, greeting diners. My boyfriend swears that he saw MM prep his dinner.

88 10th Ave
New York, NY 10011
(212) 989-8883

Buffalo, NY area:
Wasabi in Williamsville - Nigiri has generously draped portions of fish, a good but not wild selection of rolls. Teriyaki/tempura/etc entrees too, for an alternative to sushi. Opened recently, but the chef has been doing sushi in the area for a while. Nicer ambience than you'd expect from a restaurant in a plaza.
O, in Amherst - More of a club atmosphere, so they have interesting martinis available, and live music/dancing some nights. The sushi is good, and they're not afraid to make it spicy. A wider selection of rolls.
The smoked pork tenderloin with chipotle-bourbon sauce is really good too.

Suehiro in Ft. Collins and the Sushi Den in Denver....they are both amazing considering they're in the Rockies!

-Don't forget that it's VERY easy to make your own Sushi. I buy some Nori [seaweed], Wasabi and pickled ginger from my Asian grocer and then roll my own Sushi with either Sushi-grade Ahi Tuna, cooked shrimp, steamed crab [or mix and match all of the above] and also include different veges [usually cucumber, avocado, carrot]. My favorite dipping sauce is Yoshida sauce...it's sooooooooooo good with some Wasabi mixed in and drizzled on a bite of Sushi. :)

There are some EXCELLENT Sushi lessons on Video Jug.

Hiroshi Sushi (best)
926 NW 10th Avenue
Portland,OR

Murata (close 2nd)
200 SW Market St #105
Portland, OR

Sorry forgot the phone numbers & comments.

Hiroshi Sushi (best) 926 NW 10th Avenue
Portland,OR
503 619-0580
Buri Belly - perfect marble & flavor (close yor eyes & smile) - everything tastes fresher than any sushi I've had yet. Wonderful presentation as well.


Murata
200 SW Market St #105
Portland, OR
503.227.0080
His salmon nigiri are the best out there (that i've had )

kim @ apizza scholls


Ed, you can get a great sushi dinner for under $50. Geido in Brooklyn (331 Flatbush Ave, near 7th Ave) is every bit as good as Blue Ribbon, albeit with a slightly narrower selection. But the quality (especially on the weekends, when Osamu is heading the bar) is as good as anywhere, and the atmosphere is right up your alley. Ok, it's no Masa or Jewel Bako, but a great restaurant that you can go to again and again. The standard for a regular is someone who has been coming every week for 10+ years.
I hate to make the line longer on the weekends, but it would be remiss of me not to stand up for the best sushi place in Brooklyn.... (let the battles begin)
Also, you seemed to have overlooked Tomoe, up the block from Blue Ribbon in the village. It's a little more bare bones than Blue Ribbon, but much cheaper and better fish. The service is more rushed, but I found more competent than at Blue Ribbon, where I have often had to wait forever for a server. Plus they have better specials. I still remember the tuna tartare with the quail egg.

Southern NJ
(probably better than any sushi place in Philadelphia also)

http://www.fujirestaurant.com/

116 East Kings Highway
Haddonfield, NJ
856-354-8200

Kirara
33 Carmine St, New York 10014
Btwn Bleecker & Bedford St
Phone: 212-741-2123

If I was forced to choose one food I had to eat everyday, it would be sushi. Been going to Kirara on and off for many years. Like most places, the food quality is inconsistent. But recently, it got good again. I definitely recommend giving it a try.

My favorite sushi in the Chicago area -- some of the best sushi I've had outside Japan -- is in the suburbs, a few blocks from the house I grew up in.

Akai Hana
http://www.akaihanasushi.com/html/default.asp
3223 W. Lake Ave.
Wilmette, IL 60091
(847) 251-0384

In the same shopping center (there's also a Japanese supermarket there) is a takeout fish market that has even better, fresher sushi than the restaurant.

Sea Ranch
http://searanchsushi.com/
3217 Lake Ave.
Wilmette, IL 60091
847-256-4404

The best place for sushi along the central coast of California is Akaoni in Carmel-by-the-Sea. It is wonderful! This is a sushi bar in the classic Japanese style. The chef, Shinichi Yamada, was trained the traditional way in Japan and creates wonderful, delicious dishes with amazing skill. He buys his fish daily and never serves anything that isn't fresh. Beautifully prepared, I find the sushi and sashimi to be excellent. Shinichi’s sashimi presentations are something to see, especially the spanish mackerel.

He just recently got a some matsutake mushrooms from Big Sur and served them either in a delicious broth (served in a teapot) or as matsutake and uni tempura. Unfortunately, this mushroom is only available for one month out of the year. But this is an example of the love and dedication he puts into his food.

NW Mission and 6th
Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA 93921
Phone: (831) 620-1516

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