Where's Our Wall of Sardines?
Food writer Dorie Greenspan recently pointed out in her blog the difference in the availability of canned sardines between France and the U.S.; a Parisian supermarket may have an entire wall dedicated to cans of the small fatty fish while in the U.S., not so much.
There's no reason for you to care about the dwindling selection of canned sardines in America if you don't like canned sardines, but I have a weird soft spot for them—I often ate them when I was little and still love to eat them today, just plucked out of their oily baths—and I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one who is saddened by the lack of canned sardines in the average American supermarket. Dorie's description of buying canned fish in Paris is spot on:
Even in the not-so-big Monoprix grocery near my apartment in Paris, the selection of canned fish is generous enough to keep you in that aisle for a while, reading labels and deciding among sardines with hot peppers, mustard, lemon or basil, smoked or not, whole or filleted. I always keep a stack of sardine cans in the pantry, they’re my rainy-day emergency munch, perfect for when I’m on deadline and glued to my computer. A squeeze of lemon, a couple of slices of tomato, a little salad and some bread and butter and all is right with the world.
Dear god, when I was in Paris I did the same thing! I didn't really read labels as much as take one of everything (such is the consequence of my gluttony), but the end result was the same; a lot of canned sardines entered my happy belly. Can anyone else attest to being a canned sardine lover?
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12 Comments:
I'm with you, Robyn. I have loved the little devils since I was a kid, and can never pass a display without grabbing a couple of cans.
DocChuck at 9:44AM on 06/18/07
My favorite sardine memory.
Kevin at 10:16AM on 06/18/07
the part of Brooklyn where I live, Bay Ridge, should be renamed the Sardine Sector. Each ethnic grocery (of which there are many) has it's own mini wall of sardines. The Polish deli on 3rd Avenue has an especially impressive assortment. They also have a lot of pates which I prefer to tinned fishes.
theheadhen at 10:40AM on 06/18/07
@Kevin:
"Seriously Good" site and essay. Thanks for sharing.
DocChuck at 11:36AM on 06/18/07
I come from a long line of canned sardine lovers. The best ones can be found in Belle-Ile-En- Mer France.. We bought some on our honeymoon. Here in the states I settle for King Oscar and I eat them with cream cheese. Or just straight up, with toast.
izzy's mama at 12:03PM on 06/18/07
I love em but they are expensivo!
Mischiefdish at 12:31PM on 06/18/07
I never had sardines until my first visit to Prune; now I'm completely addicted. We usually have packages of King Oscar on hand, but I particularly love the Da Morgada Sardines from Portugal.
Jennifer Hess at 12:38PM on 06/18/07
I remember eating sardines in mustard on saltine crackers as a kid.
I wonder if there were a better selection of sardines available in America if they would become a more popular snack.
iheartveggies at 1:26PM on 06/18/07
You might see this in the google ads, but if not: The Sardine Diet. Now that's hardcore.
@DocChuck: Sweet, it's not just me! I also like the cans because I think they're cute. ...Okay, maybe that's weird.
@Kevin: Thanks for sharing, that was a great story!
@theheadhen: I had no idea that Bay Ridge was also the Sardine Sector. Methinks I'll have to make my way over there...
@izzy's mama: I'm all for the straight up sardines.
@Mischiefdish: I don't eat them too often. They're alright for a treat every now and then? ...A treat of sardines...okay maybe not.
@Jennifer Hess: I'll don't have a fave brand; I'll look out for those!
@iheartveggies: Methinks there isn't much of a Sardine Board in America. If there is one at all?
roboppy at 2:31PM on 06/18/07
I was 7 and desperately wanting to impress my 14 yer old cousin. My mum took us for lunch at the Tudor Tea Rooms in Sevenoaks. Being 1965,all the "Ladies who Lunch" were in pillbox hats and white gloves. I ordered sardines on toast. Refusing offers of help and waning to be a big girl I tried cutting my meal and succeeded in having the entire plate slide off the highly polished table, across the equally polished floor and come to rest under the Welsh dresser. This caused a collective "Tsk Tsk" from the chapeuded ladies, a glare from the waitress, and an empty tummy for me!
These days I enjoy my fishy friends directly from the tin,one of my guilty pleasures, reminiscent of Proust and his madeleines.
chefchristine at 3:30PM on 06/18/07
I have been on a sardine kick recently, making yummy sandwiches and salads with them nearly every day. Trader Joes (among other stores) sells Bela lightly smoked sardines in olive oil- heaven with a squirt of lemon juice.
alexb at 10:53PM on 06/18/07
@roboppy, we got the Da Morgadas at Russ and Daughters. They have a pretty good selection there.
Jennifer Hess at 4:42PM on 06/19/07