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What 'Fine Dining' Means to Me (And You?)

Posted by Ed Levine, June 20, 2007 at 4:20 PM

At the Food & Wine Classic, there were lots of interesting seminars to attend, some aimed at consumers, others aimed at the trade (chefs, restaurateurs, sommeliers). I wandered into the tail end of the panel called "The Future of Fine Dining," with Thomas Keller, Tom Colicchio, and Drew Nieporent, moderated by Steve Dolinsky. They're all really smart folks good at what they do, but it seemed like they are all still wrestling with the contemporary definition of fine dining.

I raised my hand and asked the panelists if instead of wondering what contemporary fine dining is, why not focus on making the guests at your restaurant feel comfortable and show them a good time with the delicious food you serve them and the respect you show them? These days, the mere mention of "fine-dining" sounds condescending, exclusive, and off-putting. I mentioned designer and architect David Rockwell's restaurant-design mantra (I'm paraphrasing here): A good restaurant is where people go to take 2 hour vacations from their lives.

That's my definition of fine dining.

I saw Keller at another event the following day and I thought he might mention my pearls of wisdom. Alas, my hopes were dashed: "Hi, Ed. You said something at the panel yesterday that was pretty good, but I can't remember what it was."

Oh well, I'm sure it will be in the minutes and transcripts given to all the chefs.

What's your definition of fine dining? And is the notion of fine-dining still relevant? Serious Eaters want to know.

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Tags: fine dining, Food and Wine Classic