Pity poor gluten, the stuff that, among (many) other things, gives pizza crusts and bagels their satisfyingly chewiness. It's the latest substance to be hauled in and put in the lineup down at Food Police HQ.

As the New York Times notes, there's no doubt that the stuff aggravates celiac disease, but the story also notes that the protein—found in wheat, barley, and rye—may be taking the fall for other issues it has no role in.

Dr. Joseph A. Murray, a gastroenterologist at the Mayo Clinic in Rochester, Minn., who specializes in diagnosing and treating celiac disease, says such advice may be misguided. “There’s this ‘go blame gluten’ thing going on,” he said. “It’s difficult to sort out science from the belief.”

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