James Beard Awards: A Sea of White Faces
I heard Anthony Bourdain talking about race in the restaurant industry last year, and he said something about standing on the stage at the James Beard Awards and staring into a sea of white faces. I didn't realize how much that wasn't hyperbole until I saw Noah Kalina's crowd photos from the 2007 awards over at Eater; I couldn't find a single non-white face among the attendees in the first crowd close-up. Take a good long look:
See how many people of color you can find, and let's compare notes after the jump.
OK, so I found a grand total of three non-white faces:
The guy on the right is holding a large camera and isn't dressed up for the occasion, so it's probably safe to assume he's a photographer on the job and count him out. Which brings my count to a grand total of two, both of them female and Asian. Classic!
So what's the deal here, no blacks or Latinos invited? Do they even allow men of color past the door besides David Chang and Marcus Samuelsson? Clearly this is not rigorous scientific analysis on my part, but I have to say that, as a brown person, I get creeped out when I see photos from events like this; whether intentional or not, the message I get out of it is a subtle but firm "not for you."
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23 Comments:
Lia Bulaong:
Exactly what is the point of your title, " ... A Sea of White Faces"?
Sounds like you may have an agendum here, and personally, I don't think that "Serious Eats" is the place for it.
But, then, that's just MY opinion!
DocChuck at 1:37PM on 05/09/07
Seriously? You don't think this comment belongs? Why not? It's an interesting statement that has to do with the food industry... and serious eats is about interesting things to do with the food industry. Not to mention, I think it's a good point and an aspect of the (high-class) food industry that could stand a little scrutiny.
AJK at 1:40PM on 05/09/07
I also thought it was perfectly appropriate for Serious Eats. I thought it was a valid point, and worthy of consideration. I saw no agenda.
Lou at 2:19PM on 05/09/07
Lia is just stating the facts, and I agree with her wholeheartedly.
Marvin at 2:29PM on 05/09/07
I also thought Lia's observation was perfectly appropriate, and I can tell you since I was there, that it was so true. It was like being at a hockey game, only everyone was wearing tuxes.
Ed Levine at 2:42PM on 05/09/07
Like I said . . . that's just MY opinion.
Somehow, I thought that FOOD websites and POLITICAL websites were two different animals.
But, HEY, what do I know?
DocChuck at 2:59PM on 05/09/07
Food and people go together. Can't really talk about food without talking about people. People cook the food, people eat the food, people enjoy the food. Serious Eats is about food, therefore also about people.
This post was about food AND people, so I don't see the problem.
I find it wholly appropriate and completely true.
misssbhavens at 3:28PM on 05/09/07
Food *IS* politics. Witness all the posts about organic food, food poisoning, small farms, dieting. You can't seriously claim that none of those issues have to do with politics? Ugh, I have to keep rewriting this message because it keeps pissing me off. But to deny that race matters is not only offensive, it's hurtful to those of us who have to live with the reality every single day.
toastykitten at 3:43PM on 05/09/07
One of Bourdain's points concerns the elitist nature of the James Beard Foundation; it does not acknowledge how essential Latino workers are to the business and how strongly they are represented in professional kitchens. Not sure he's ever addressed gender, but the number of women in that photograph does not represent the demographics of professional kitchens, either. (That's another topic altogether, and seemingly of lesser interest to the man.) Cf. Michael Ruhlman's article on the subject, one that addresses just how attractive a career in the kitchen is to ambitious people of color. This is the angle that many members of eGullet.org chose to pursue at great length quite some time ago.
Eliz. at 4:58PM on 05/09/07
As a Latino I echo Lia's sentiments. It's a huge peeve of mine when it comes to anything James Beard, and seeing this photo just makes me feel exasperated.
And yes, this is wholly appropriate on Serious Eats.
Perhaps one day we people of color will be good enough!
(I'm kidding on that last part! Kidding!)
mattbites at 6:09PM on 05/09/07
Okay, I was at this event and I agree with this post. I did see maybe like 5 black people there. They were all pimped out looking pretty darn sweet. But that was it. A ton of Asian people, but that doesn't really count. This event was very WHITE.
GrowABeard at 6:49PM on 05/09/07
That was the front of the house. I would imagine the back of the house had some major color. An entirely appropriate topic for discussion!
Colorado Jim at 12:00PM on 05/10/07
On tables laid perhaps unknown
with gleaming spiky forks of spite
that which does not bark aloud
will subtly leave its silent bite.
...................................................................
I'm sorry to know that you were bitten, Lia, and hope that things will change for the better both at the Beard Awards and elsewhere.
Karen Resta at 1:02PM on 05/10/07
Oh come on, Karen.
What's with the MELODRAMA?
And the "poet" wannabe? . . . give me a break!
If you are referring to me (and it would appear that you may be), I did not "bite" Lia.
But, if Lia and you have a problem with the Beard Awards, and IF you have actually earned your credentials to tell ME what the problem(s) are, then I would think that you might find a more appropriate forum on which to do so.
This is America.
Whether or not YOU and Lia like this country, or the way this country operates, is neither here nor there!
Obviously you are living here, and it may behoove you to learn how to adjust to the great Republic without suggesting, ONCE AGAIN, that you are a deprived individual in the country of America.
DocChuck . . . a man who can trace his American roots all the way to Plymouth Rock, thank you very much.
DocChuck at 3:07PM on 05/10/07
I had a feeling that words shaped as a poem would rock your world, Doc. In some way, anyway. Glad to see I garnered four capitalized words in response.
But really, I was not referring to you at all in my post.
And also was not suggesting that either I or Lia have been deprived. I'll behoove if you'll behoove.
Karen Resta at 4:42PM on 05/10/07
Setting poetry aside for the moment, I just had several thoughts during this brief recess while I polished my old silver, blocked my hat, ironed my Old School tie and curry-combed the horse.
The first thought was that from what I have heard of James Beard personally from those that knew him *personally* during his time in New York, he would not have been pleased to think that anyone would feel excluded, or even "distanced" for any reason from a function that bore his name. Particularly one that was a celebration of food. That is just pure commentary, of course, one can take it or leave it, consider it or throw it away as not worthy of further thought.
The second thought was not as important. It just flew through my little head how very much I love that classic old song "Ain't Misbehoovin". :)
Karen Resta at 5:39PM on 05/10/07
Actually, THIS is not America (at LEAST where I live).
I HATE poetry as WELL, and MY caps lock KEY also SUCKS.
I can TRACE my AMERICAN roots all the way back to MY grandparents. Congratulations on the Plymouth Rock thing (not that I believe it), but that does not make you any more American.
If my use of caps is inopportune,
forgive me for being a bit jejune.
I'll end this post a little soon,
I'm tired 'cause it's almost June.
That's why I HATE poetry: I can't DO it..
Lou at 12:04AM on 05/11/07
Ha, ha! I hate poetry as well. It's just a pleasant and annoying little affectation one can use to make pretense to intellectual tastes.
But if our use of poems is fakery
Can we still hang out at the bakery?
I'd like to attend a function at Beard House
Do I have to be white and quote Mar-Cel Proust?
Karen Resta at 8:45AM on 05/11/07
Lou:
Re: "(not that I believe it)" . . . Believe it, Lou.
And . . . just where is it that you live?
And I, of course, would be the first to admit that there are a LOT BETTER (damn that caps key!) places to live than America (especially since George W and his bible-thumpers took over).
But, of course, I have to wonder why THOUSANDS (stupid caps key) of people insist upon moving to my country every year?
What's the answer, Lou?
DocChuck at 2:29PM on 05/11/07
I live in Puerto Rico.
People move to America because of the job and educational opportunities there. If I had school-age children or needed a job, I wouldn't be here. I don't. It's a stunningly beautiful place, and the food is great.
You are correct, I have no reason do doubt the Plymouth Rock thing.
Lou at 2:50PM on 05/11/07
Thanks for responding, Lou. In a way, I envy you for your ability to live in PR.
I got my hackles up a wee bit . . . one of my many faults that I rationalize as being due to my age and increasing combativeness.
I apologize for my rudeness.
BUT the "Plymouth Rock thing" is totally legit despite the fact that it has little, if any, value in today's scheme of things.
DocChuck at 9:19PM on 05/12/07
Toches ahfen tish!
baboo at 10:07PM on 05/12/07
Okay, has this entire post been about some dude named "DocChuck?" and since when does having "Plymouth Rock roots" give anyone more rights to say whatever they want to about the U.S., and everyone who disagrees should just shut up and deal with it, or leave? Oh yeah, we need more people like you in the food industry.
Bottom line is this - if you disagree that race should be discussed in a food blog, then read a different blog - no one is begging you to stick to this one. Even better - write your own, and discuss whatever you choose.
whatzerkitty at 10:57AM on 05/15/07