Sam Sifton, currently the New York Times culture editor, is the greatest writer about food you've never heard of. Although he is too busy in his present job to write much at all these days, he does find time to occasionally contribute to the New York Times Magazine. Yesterday he wrote a fantastic piece about the history and evolution of cold sesame noodles. He even includes a recipe, with the help and aid of yarn-spinner and Chinese restaurateur Eddie Schoenfeld (aka "Chop Sooey Looey"). It calls for a tablespoon of smooth peanut butter and a quarter cup of chopped roasted peanuts. Alas, no jelly.