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Paris: Steak Frites City

Posted by Ed Levine, April 30, 2007

Mark Bittman's tour of Parisian steak frites joints was a vicariously pleasurable read, and I found myself trying to come up with an excuse to fly to Paris to try each and every one of them. Maybe we need to do an all Paris week on Serious Eats. What do you think?

As mouthwatering as the story was, he didn't really explain the differences between French beef and American beef. The French generally don't age their meat, so you don't get that fantastic minerally flavor the best dry-aged prime beef has in the States. I may be wrong, but they don't grade meat over there, and I don't think they serve much in the way of what we call prime meat here. After the jump, some entries from his list, and my own recommendation.

Le Relais de Venise
271 Boulevard Pereire
331-4574-2797
Steak frites (only thing they serve)

Le Severo
8, rue des Plantes
331-4540-4091
Cotes de Boeuf, Fries

Le Bistro Paul Bert
18 Rue Paul Bert
331-4372-2401
Entrecote, squab

Chez Georges
273 Boulevard Pereire
331-4574-3100
Rib Roast, cheese plate from Marie Quatrehomme

Au Boeuf Coronne
188 Avenue Jean-Jaures
331-4239-4444
Rump steak, pommes soufflees

He missed my favorite steak frites in Paris:

Le Fontaine de Mars
129 Rue Saint Dominique
01-47-05-46-44

Finally, in general the best Paris restaurant website is Patricia Wells's. Who knows? Bittman himself may have consulted it before he came up with his list.

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