A Cook's Tour of Milan
"Most visitors to Milan, Italy's center of finance, commerce and design, go looking for gold, literally or figuratively, and so do I. But the gold I search for is culinary." Former New York Times food critic Mimi Sheraton goes on a cook's tour of Milan and samples the city's finest epicurean delights, like the risotto al salto, "a thin pancake formed of leftover risotto, fried to parchment crispness on one side then flipped (or jumped — salto) to the second side in a swirl of hot butter, the preferred cooking fat of Lombardy."
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