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Serious Eats

Bill Buford Likes Gordon Ramsay, He Really Does

Posted by Ed Levine, March 26, 2007

20070326ramsay.jpg
Photograph from gordonramsay.com

In this week's New Yorker, Bill Buford takes us behind the scenes and into the kitchen of screaming English chef Gordon Ramsay as he opens a restaurant in New York City. Buford's a terrific writer, but I'm not sure we learn anything that surprising in its 12 pages.

Ramsay curses a lot, is a surprisingly understated chef, and is really a good bloke when you drill down and get to know him. The story's big revelation is that Ramsay himself stole the reservation book at Aubergine, his London restaurant, and then accused his former mentor Marco Pierre White of doing it to prevent White from making a deal with Aubergine's principal owners to take over the kitchen from Ramsay.

Interesting, yes. Earthshattering, no. Oh, yes, we learn that Ramsey likes to curse. A lot.

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