Food & Wine is actually my guilty pleasure food glossy. I know it's style- and star-driven, but it's a very well put together magazine whose editors execute their vision very well. That said, the "Taste Tests" in the front of the book almost always wimp out.

I'm sure the reason is that they don't want to piss off any present or future advertisers, but the result for me is that I don't believe a word that's said in them. They tasted frozen pizzas in the April 2007 issue and reported on three, Amy's, American Flatbread, and Stouffer's French Bread Cheese Pizza.

In a shocking development, they liked them all. If you need further proof that Food & Wine wimps out on its taste tests, check out this 2002 Frozen Pizza Taste Test. Jeffrey Steingarten and I tasted many, many frozen pizzas for a chapter in my book Pizza: A Slice of Heaven, and the only one I would choose to eat is the American Flatbread cheese and herb pizza. They actually parbake those pizzas in a wood-burning oven. That's pretty cool for a frozen pizza.

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