Frank Bruni on the trend towards giant cocktail glasses: "The gargantuan drink — intended to impress and often genuinely intended as a good value — has proliferated, and there’s a downside. Cocktails meant to be consumed at a certain chilly temperature begin getting significantly warmer before anyone who’s not quaffing them in three big, speedy sips can get to the bottom of the glass. That’s not what the cocktail gods intended, and yet these larger drinks have made their smaller counterparts seem stinting, setting up a Goldilocks situation: this one’s too stinting; this one’s overwhelming; where’s the one that’s just right?"
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