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The Tasting Menu: Take It or Leave It?

New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni wonders whether diners really enjoy tasting menus:

They want a fine-dining experience, and they want to relax, and they want to linger, but only to a point. And many tasting menus take them well beyond that point. For them, the tasting menu isn’t a luxurious journey. It’s like recent Martin Scorsese movies: thrilling at moments but tediously long.

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