Food Glossies Trumped by a "T"
I'm a compulsive reader of the food glossies: Gourmet, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, and Saveur. Aren't you? Each has its virtues, though I can't say that any one of them really speaks to me. I like Gourmet's food politics stories and some of its writers (Jane and Michael Stern, John T. Edge, Calvin Trillin), but I don't share Ruth Reichl's enthusiasm for hiring as many novelists as she can to write stories for her. I used to look forward to reading Pete Wells' column in Food & Wine, but now that he's gone I'm sure I'm going to find Food & Wine's penchant for celebritizing everything (It's the In Style of food magazines) a little hard to take. I wish Bon Appetit had a funkier, more real voice and take on everything, but I don't want it to become Saveur, which takes realness to unnecessary, unusaable heights.
This obsession I have with the food glossies makes it all the more surprising that the Times magazine supplement, "T," this past Sunday put out an issue that was essentially another food glossy, albeit with a stylish and stylized bent, that was compulsively, pleasurably readable in a way that the food glossies rarely are.
The highlights of the issue: Sara Lyall's piece on London restaurant critics, Heidi Julavits' (yes I know she's an acclaimed young novelist)
funny and wise story on the groundbreaking year-round greenhouse growers in Maine, Toby Cecchini's piece of Schaller & Weber's double-amoked bacon (he thinks it's so good it should be declared a controlled substance), and a funny piece about breakfast in Los Angeles. Of course the LA breakfast piece would have been a lot better without the two Hollywood types telling us they eat at the Beverly Hills every morning. Now there's a breaking bit of news. In fact Los Angeles is a very good breakfast town, and would it have killed someone to call Irene (Sherry) Virbila of the LA Times to ask her for her five favorite breakfast spots in LA.
I haven't even mentioned the best part of yesterday's issue of "T."
There are contributions by two first rate food bloggers, Graham Holliday of Noodle Pie, and Clotide Dusoulier of chocolateandzucchini Of course the Times doesn't even print the urls of their blogs, but that's another story.
What's your favorite food glossy? Tell me why.